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Routes in Cave area

Anti-meridian T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Assless Chaps Extension T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Ding Dong's Crack T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Equator T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flying Squirrel, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
HoneyComb Dome , The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Japanese Cowboy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Little Tension Whore T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pancakes and Raisins T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prime Meridian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prospector T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sprained Ego T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sword Ladder T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm Up, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: Brandon Gottung and Adam Pecan
Page Views: 78 total, 3/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Dec 24, 2015
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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180th Meridian

Anti-meridian is the obvious splitter offwidth up and right of the arch, accessed by climbing Equator to the third anchor. Very aesthetic but poor rock-quality.

From belay, step right across the hardy shrub into the flare with off-fists tapering down to fingers. Step right onto the ledge (Prime Meridian goes straight-up) and move right into the perfect hand crack that opens up to sustained and leaning 5s. The angle relents as the crack narrows to fists before the overhanging fingers finish.

Cedar Wright bailed from this pitch in 2012 from the bolt in the middle of the offwidth. Even though it's a perfect crack, it's nice to have a bolt to clip - makes the route very reasonable with 2 #5s.

Descent

70 meter rope. Ideally, lead and follow! Leader climbs to anchor and threads it and gets lowered to the Prime Meridian anchor. The second can follow and clean then get lowered to the Prime Meridian anchor. Pull the rope. Rappel through the squeeze chimney on Prime Meridian to the Equator ledge. Otherwise, with two ropes, it's a beautiful rappel over the arch to the ground, but you gotta fix a line to the Equator ledge if you left anything there.

Springy widgets

Double set .3 to #5.

Photos

Brandon Gottung
Moab, UT
 
Brandon Gottung   Moab, UT
 
I did not free this. It'd be an awesome pitch but the left side of the crack has a 3 cm thick rotten shell. This shell sealed the crack shut where it narrows down so I hammered that off while hanging. With some work, it could clean-up well. Dec 24, 2015