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Ding Dong's Crack

5.12b, Trad, 95 ft,  Avg: 4 from 7 votes
FA: 1st anchor: Matt Segal and Will Stanhope, 2nd anchor: Mike Dobie
International > Asia > China > Yunnan Province > Lijiang Area > Liming (黎明) > Dinner Wall > Cave area

Description

In 2011, Matt and Will established a 13 meter Ding Dong's Crack, then in spring 2015, Mike Dobie spent two days cleaning, trundling some massive blocks, pushing the pitch to the top of the crack, making for an absolutely must-do, classic 28 meter pitch. No need to stop at the first anchor, keep going for one of the most memorable pitches in Li Ming!

A fingers corner opens into a nice offwidth then becomes a perfect leaning, slightly offset .5 to .75 splitter. Mantle the ledge and recover for part-two. Climb the tight flare with .5s and .75s to some exciting moves through the constriction into a final flare. Nest some bomber gear before committing to the spicy, fantastic finishing sequence.

Location

5 minute walk right of the arch that is the Cave Area. Next to the Lisu ladder.

Protection

(1).3, (3-4).4, (4-6).5, (3).75. A #5 is useful for the offwidth. Save a .4 for the top - a .3 and #2 friend or black metolius can back it up well.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

This is the full Ding Dong's Crack. Don't make the mistake to clip the first anchor and stop! The anchor way up there is the full value experience.
[Hide Photo] This is the full Ding Dong's Crack. Don't make the mistake to clip the first anchor and stop! The anchor way up there is the full value experience.
This is what De Dong's Crack was back in 2012. Mike trundled those blocks finishing the pitch.
[Hide Photo] This is what De Dong's Crack was back in 2012. Mike trundled those blocks finishing the pitch.
This is one striking crack!
[Hide Photo] This is one striking crack!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brandon Gottung
currently Las Cruces, NM
  5.12
[Hide Comment] It'd be great if somebody took out that first anchor and moved it to the ledge above, just to preserve the beauty of the black rock, while still maintaining the original route. Dec 15, 2015