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Routes in Cretaceous area

Firewall (aka: Flying Buttress), The T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Soul's Awakening (half) T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A0
VPN Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wind of the Valley T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 250 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Mike Dobie et al.
Page Views: 732 total, 15/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Oct 21, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route

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P1: Hands in a corner. 5.9

P2: Short slab with bolts up and left around bad rock. 5.10.

P3: Two options - left or right. Left goes free at 5.10+. Right goes at 5.9 A0.

P4: Climb the double-crack up to a beautiful off-width corner with lots of honeycombing. Super fun! 5.10-.

You can continue to the top if you have a #6. This should be written up as a separate entry as pretty much nobody does this and it requires more detail than what was previously provided.


Triple #1-2, double #.75, 3, 4, one #5, at least six QD's
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
First pitch is the best hand crack in Liming, with a bit of lay-backing and bolt-clipping to mix things up.

The "second pitch" is really just a bolt ladder extension to the first. I skipped half the bolts even aiding it, kinda silly how many there are. You could also free it if you really wanted to.

Somehow nobody has mentioned the incredibly scary detached slab that you have to squeeze in behind if going right for the 3rd pitch. Hopefully it doesn't come off on top of anyone - unlikely given the position of the belay above and left of the 1st pitch anchor.

The bolts on the "aid" section for the variation up and left are very widely spaced, so slings would be required (aiders would be ideal) to get from bolt to bolt and then into the crack. Free climb it if you like featureless slabs.

Fourth pitch, if just going to the first anchor, requires two #4's and one #5. A bit tricky to figure out how to climb the first bit, then cruiser up the hands section into the off-width which can be avoided using face holds in the honeycombing.

When rapping from the top of the 3rd pitch to the top of the 1st, be careful not to get your rope stuck between the detached slab and the right-hand wall. We got it stuck and had to aid back up and climb back behind that teetering death-block... Nov 10, 2016
Would not recommend continuing past pitch 4
Bird poop section is fun though Mar 7, 2016
RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, China
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, China
The bottom 4 pitches are amazing. The 1st and 4th pitches are beautiful, vertical hands to fist-sized corners (the latter finishing with a taste of offwidth) with excellent exposure and position.

There is an established way to continue and top out on the Cretaceous Area formation, but current conditions don't really seem to allow for it. Here's some info:

The 4th pitch marks the start of the Cretaceous Crack. The crack itself is about 40m long, but there is a bolted anchor station 20m up. The first 20m are hands to fists to easy offwidth. Above, it expands to a #6 cam-sized, full-on offwidth. However, as of now (winter 2014), the upper section of offwidth is completely slathered in a thick layer of bird poop (measurable thickness) on both sides. You can forge onward through it; we saw evidence of a foot skid in the crap above. If you manage to surmount the bird crap, there are two pitches above to the top: a runout 5.10 pitch and a dirty 5.7 pitch that will put you atop the sandstone tower/formation.

The classic pitches are definitely the lower ones, but if you are determined to get to the top of the cliff, be prepared for some interesting adventure climbing. Dec 27, 2014