All Locations > International > Asia > China > Yunnan Province > Lijiang Area > Li Ming (黎明) > Lisu Area > Primitive Buttress
Back to the Primitive
Avg: 3.9 from 9 votes
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Mike Dobie. Various FFAs.|
|Page Views:||869 total · 16/month|
|Shared By:||Brandon Gottung on Oct 21, 2013|
|Admins:||Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball|
DescriptionMega classic. This one alone is worth the trip to Li Ming.
Eight highly varied, quality and challenging pitches get you to the top of primitive area buttress. Rock is of phenomenal quality; the lichen, soil and vegetation give the climb an adventurous character. All belays, besides the first and the last (which are trees) are equipped with bolts and the descent is a beautiful walk-off.
P1: 15 m. Access pitch. Three options: an easy 5th class romp up P1 of Trainwreck, Lollipop - a fun 5.8 or Saving Face - 5.9. Lollipop is the standard start, a right facing corner with about 5 meters of clean cracks to a leftward traverse then up dirtier rock to a slung tree.
P2: 20 m. 5.11+. From the tree move belay left to the base of a slot that becomes a gorgeous discontinuous finger crack. Phenomenal.
P3: 18 m. 5.10. Awesome off-fingers roof that becomes perfect hands through another roof.
P4: 30 m. 5.10+. Climb broken rock through the pod, pull the wide roof and power through the sustained offwidth to a short hand crack finishing with a big move left.
P5: 32 m. 5.11-. Amazing! Up and out of the leaning chimney then along a balencey, arching finger crack with slabby feet.
P6: 10m. 5.9 A0. Short pitch with aid on 2 bolts goes up and left.
P7: 28 m. 5.10+. Burly! Wild physical moves off belay then up the huge flake. Move left to a short hand crack to comfortable ledge.
P8: 25 m. 5.9. Turtles in Space. Improbable finale to a classic adventure.
Walk-off: From the top of the wall, contour around to the right to the top of the ridge. Keep trending right staying above the steep slope and dense vegetation to a well-worn trail that descends down the spearhead gully. Stay on the trail down to the boardwalk. Expect a one hour descent.