Type: Trad
FA: Mike Dobie
Page Views: 164 total · 3/month
Shared By: Brandon Gottung on Nov 1, 2013
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Description

Steep and sweet! This is the roof looming above Scarface and Boy with a Coin which can be linked with either pitch below or climbed as a separate pitch.

A new anchor at the top simplifies the descent - a 65 m rope gets you directly to the ground. Otherwise the descent is slightly involved: make an anchor on a tree on top of the buttress and belay up your partner. Walk up and climbers right to a rap anchor. A 60m will get you down.

Location

Above Scarface and Boy with a Coin.

Protection

It depends on whether linked from the ground or pitch out, but you'll want a couple pieces in the #1-#4 range.

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A view up 3 of the Pincrest Buttress' classic routes. Left, curving crack is Scarface 2 (5.10+), right corner is Boy with a Coin (5.10+), and the roof above where the 2 routes intersect is Gore. The pitch continues over the roof and up a wide, detached flake to the top of the Buttress.
A view up 3 of the Pincrest Buttress' classic r…
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RyderS Stroud
Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
RyderS Stroud   Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
Great 2-pitch outing when combined with Boy with a Coin or Scarface. Bouldery moves right off of the anchor will get you to glorious steep hands and an outrageous position looking down the majority of the Pinecrest Buttress!

Notes:

- Can be led with one #4 and a tipped-out #3. More safely led with two of them. Gear: double #1, double #4, #5 or #6.
- BRING A NUT TOOL. The features of this crack's top out lend themselves to sucking in cams above the roof. We had to lasso out a deeply stuck #1.
- The top detached flake is best protected with wide cams (#5-#6 or both). Not hard. Just a bit insecure because of the lichen.
- Enjoy the panorama of the main valley and the full face view of Lost World!
- You will find a rap station at the top of the route on a tree, consisting of a length of rope and a carabiner. Rappel off of the near side of the buttress (60m will make it), and it should deposit you next to the start of Foe-Hammer. Apr 14, 2015