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> Yunnan Province
> Lijiang Area
> Li Ming (黎明)
> Lisu Area
> Pinecrest Buttress
Gore
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 4
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Routes in Pinecrest Buttress
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Boy with a Coin T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Foe-Hammer T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Gore T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Great Owl, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Reckoning, The T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scarface II T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad |
| FA: | Mike Dobie |
| Page Views: | 140 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Brandon Gottung on Nov 1, 2013 |
| Admins: | Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball |
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Description
Steep and sweet! This is the roof looming above Scarface and Boy with a Coin which can be linked with either pitch below or climbed as a separate pitch.
A new anchor at the top simplifies the descent - a 65 m rope gets you directly to the ground. Otherwise the descent is slightly involved: make an anchor on a tree on top of the buttress and belay up your partner. Walk up and climbers right to a rap anchor. A 60m will get you down.
A new anchor at the top simplifies the descent - a 65 m rope gets you directly to the ground. Otherwise the descent is slightly involved: make an anchor on a tree on top of the buttress and belay up your partner. Walk up and climbers right to a rap anchor. A 60m will get you down.
Dali, Yunnan Province, CN
Notes:
- Can be led with one #4 and a tipped-out #3. More safely led with two of them. Gear: double #1, double #4, #5 or #6.
- BRING A NUT TOOL. The features of this crack's top out lend themselves to sucking in cams above the roof. We had to lasso out a deeply stuck #1.
- The top detached flake is best protected with wide cams (#5-#6 or both). Not hard. Just a bit insecure because of the lichen.
- Enjoy the panorama of the main valley and the full face view of Lost World!
- You will find a rap station at the top of the route on a tree, consisting of a length of rope and a carabiner. Rappel off of the near side of the buttress (60m will make it), and it should deposit you next to the start of Foe-Hammer. Apr 14, 2015