Elevation: 8,341 ft
GPS: 37.83546, -119.4577
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 144,958 total · 710/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.

Getting There

It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.

To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. Although it is steep in spots, this is walk-off descent. Rope up if you need to, but please DO NOT RAP OFF THE TREES - these trees have suffered a bit of damage over the years from ropes and slings and should not be used.

See photo.

44 Total Climbs

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Location: Stately Pleasure Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Stately Pleasure Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 8
Jabberwalky
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 201
The Great White Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 11
Far West Country
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 378
West Country
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 262
Hermaphrodite Flake
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Turkey Trot
Sport, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 455
South Crack
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 152
The Boltway
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 11
Quiet Desperation
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Potter in Wonderland
Sport, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 30
Table of Contents
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
Daddy's Little Girl
Trad, Alpine
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 44
Black Angel
Trad, Alpine
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 10
Death Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 7
Arch Rival
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jabberwalky
 8
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
The Great White Book
 201
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Far West Country
 11
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
West Country
 378
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Hermaphrodite Flake
 262
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Turkey Trot
 17
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, Alpine
South Crack
 455
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
The Boltway
 152
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Quiet Desperation
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
Potter in Wonderland
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
Table of Contents
 30
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Daddy's Little Girl
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
Black Angel
 44
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine
Death Crack
 10
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine
Arch Rival
 7
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
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