Elevation: 8,341 ft
GPS: 37.835, -119.458 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 62,454 total · 411/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.

Getting There

It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.

To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. Although it is steep in spots, this is walk-off descent. Rope up if you need to, but please DO NOT RAP OFF THE TREES - these trees have suffered a bit of damage over the years from ropes and slings and should not be used.

See photo.

23 Total Climbs

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Location: Stately Pleasure Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Stately Pleasure Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 149
Great White Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 292
West Country
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 169
Hermaphrodite Flake
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 9
Eunuch
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Shadow Nose
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 7
White Flake
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 333
South Crack
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 99
Boltway
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 4
Get Slick
Trad, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 12
Footnote
Trad, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 22
Table of Contents
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Black Angel
Trad, Alpine
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Death Crack
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Great White Book
 149
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
West Country
 292
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Hermaphrodite Flake
 169
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Eunuch
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Shadow Nose
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
White Flake
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine
South Crack
 333
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Boltway
 99
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Get Slick
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine
Footnote
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine
Table of Contents
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Black Angel
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine
Death Crack
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine
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C Miller   CA  
The name comes from the poem Kubla Khan by Samuel Taylor Coleridge. Sep 28, 2006
Richard O'Neal
Lancaster, Ca
Richard O'Neal   Lancaster, Ca
In lieu of the normal decent, we tried the allegedly easier "walk off" around the west side. There were rock stackings for trail markers. However, it seemed just as sketchy as the normal decent and took much longer. Jun 27, 2016
M Hostetler
Oakland, CA
M Hostetler   Oakland, CA
Anyone else have beta or opinions on the easier walk off? Jul 10, 2018
Daniel James
2018/19: Bristol, England
Daniel James   2018/19: Bristol, England
For the normal descent bring some webbing/cord in case the stuff on the tree is in poor condition (if you want to give yourself the option of the rap for that spot). Someone also had slung a tree for a second possible rappel, but I think you still have to do other sections that are worse than that just by carefully walking (or butt-scooting if you prefer) Aug 13, 2018
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
As of Sep-2018 there were cairns that marked the way to the easy (though a bit longer) walk off, on the northwest side of the dome. We topped out South Crack and headed that way, eventually scrambling down easy ledges and slabs (3rd class at most in places) and then down along the gully and back to the road. Takes about 20-25 minutes to get back to your car. Other than some annoying bushwhacking in places, it is easy and avoids the sketchy slabs for the normal descent. There is a faint trail for a good part of the way, once you're in the gully. Sep 24, 2018