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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.

Getting There

It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.

To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. At one point you can rap a tree over the steepest section, though probably 50% of climbers just walk this part too. See photo.

24 Total Climbs

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Location: Stately Pleasure Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Stately Pleasure Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 148
Great White Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 289
West Country
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 168
Hermaphrodite Flake
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 9
Eunuch
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 3
Shadow Nose
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 7
White Flake
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 333
South Crack
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 97
Boltway
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 4
Get Slick
Trad, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 12
Footnote
Trad, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 22
Table of Contents
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Black Angel
Trad, Alpine
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
 3
Cross Reference
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 7
Death Crack
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Great White Book
 148
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
West Country
 289
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Hermaphrodite Flake
 168
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Eunuch
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Shadow Nose
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
White Flake
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine
South Crack
 333
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Boltway
 97
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Get Slick
 4
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine
Footnote
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine
Table of Contents
 22
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Black Angel
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine
Cross Reference
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Death Crack
 7
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
C Miller   CA  
The name comes from the poem Kubla Khan by Samuel Taylor Coleridge. Sep 28, 2006
Richard O'Neal
Lancaster, Ca
Richard O'Neal   Lancaster, Ca
In lieu of the normal decent, we tried the allegedly easier "walk off" around the west side. There were rock stackings for trail markers. However, it seemed just as sketchy as the normal decent and took much longer. Jun 27, 2016
M Hostetler
Oakland, CA
M Hostetler   Oakland, CA
Anyone else have beta or opinions on the easier walk off? Jul 10, 2018
Daniel James
NYCish, NY.
Daniel James   NYCish, NY.
For the normal descent bring some webbing/cord in case the stuff on the tree is in poor condition (if you want to give yourself the option of the rap for that spot). Someone also had slung a tree for a second possible rappel, but I think you still have to do other sections that are worse than that just by carefully walking (or butt-scooting if you prefer) Aug 13, 2018
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
As of Sep-2018 there were cairns that marked the way to the easy (though a bit longer) walk off, on the northwest side of the dome. We topped out South Crack and headed that way, eventually scrambling down easy ledges and slabs (3rd class at most in places) and then down along the gully and back to the road. Takes about 20-25 minutes to get back to your car. Other than some annoying bushwhacking in places, it is easy and avoids the sketchy slabs for the normal descent. There is a faint trail for a good part of the way, once you're in the gully. Sep 24, 2018

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