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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Elevation: 8,345 ft
GPS: 37.835, -119.458 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 48,619 total · 345/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 23, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Getting weather forecast...

Description

Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Getting There

It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.

To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. At one point you can rap a tree over the steepest section, though probably 50% of climbers just walk this part too. See photo.

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Stately Pleasure Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Great White Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
West Country
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hermaphrodite Flake
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Eunuch
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
White Flake
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
South Crack
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Boltway
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Get Slick
Trad, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Table of Contents
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Angel
Trad, Alpine
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Cross Reference
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Death Crack
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Great White Book 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
West Country 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Hermaphrodite Flake 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Eunuch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
White Flake 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine
South Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
Boltway 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Get Slick 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine
Table of Contents 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Black Angel 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine
Cross Reference 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
Death Crack 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Stately Pleasure Dome »

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Richard O'Neal
Lancaster, Ca
Richard O'Neal   Lancaster, Ca
In lieu of the normal decent, we tried the allegedly easier "walk off" around the west side. There were rock stackings for trail markers. However, it seemed just as sketchy as the normal decent and took much longer. Jun 27, 2016
C Miller   CA  
The name comes from the poem Kubla Khan by Samuel Taylor Coleridge. Sep 28, 2006

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