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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome
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Aoxomoxoa S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltway, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cross Reference T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Direct White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Far West - Right Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Far West Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Foolish Pleasures T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Gallipoli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Great White Book, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jabberwalky T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jonah T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Kamps-Couch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Miss Adventure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Potter in Wonderland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prints of Pleasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Shadow Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Terrapin TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Top Gun T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Turkey Trot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Water Streak #1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Way We Could Have Been, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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White Flake, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 37.83546, -119.4577 |
| FA: | Vern Clevenger, Eric Schoen & Rob Frick, November 1973 |
| Page Views: | 1,540 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | sibylle Hechtel on Jul 12, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Pitch 1. Head up an easy flake system for about 40 feet. At the top of the flake, follow a small left-facing corner until it ends. (South Crack traverses right from here to the next crack to the right). From the end of the corner, climb on friction, passing a bolt (5.9 move), to a bolted anchor.
Pitch 2. The second pitch heads up and slightly left on friction. According to one older topo, there should be a bolt anchor, which we never found. We belayed at a small ledge with a small crack.
Pitch 3. Friction climbing leads up to the small cracks above the top of the Great White Book and a gear anchor.
Pitch 4. Meander up easy terrain to the top of the Great White Book and another gear anchor.
Warning: There once was a bolted anchor, which has been removed. I saw the remains of several bolts. With a 60-meter rope, we were able to reach small flakes and cracks to place an anchor. Depending on how long you run the pitches, this can be climbed in more or fewer pitches.
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