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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,457 total · 18/month
Shared By: Laine Christman on Jan 17, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

P1- follow the easy right-leaning crack to a slab. Climb the unprotected slab 40' to a large ledge with a horizontal crack (belay)
P2- move left then climb the slab up and right to the base of a finger crack, follow to its end, move right to another crack (1 piton) then climb up the slab to a bolted belay (1 bolt and pins)
P3- move up and right on slab passing a old-school hanger. Either 1)angle right to the base of a right-leaning crack (belay) or 2)continue up the slab (bolted belay?)
P4- depending on which way you came from 1) Follow the easy right-leaing crack and top out same as boltway (fun and protected) or 2)follow the slab to the top (not as fun).

Location

Located on the same ledge as Herm Flake, climber's left of West Country. This fun climb is a good choice if Herm flake is crowded. Several options exist to top this climb out, some spicier than others.

Protection

Gear to 4

Photos

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Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
A spicier way to finish this route is to follow the original Shadow Nose route as shown in Tuolumne Free Climbs, Second Edition, Aug 2009 ... although it appears someone has remove some of the spice by adding a bolt to P2. Aug 11, 2016

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