Type: Trad, Alpine, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: FFA Eric Bissell, July 4th 2016
Page Views: 1,919 total · 34/month
Shared By: Eric Bissell on Sep 1, 2020
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This mixed bolted/gear route was an old Tuolumne project going back to the 80's. Kurt Smith put work in before the days of hang-dogging, trying to unlock the cryptic beta on ground up attempts. Chad Shepard (with Chris Falkenstein?) brought the project back to life in the modern era and came very close to sending but fell after the crux and core-shot his rope where the crack turns the corner. 

The project had already been dubbed Top Gun in the 80's and the FA took place on Fourth of July. Needless to say Top Gun was watched that night. 

The route does see some seasonal seep (worse some years more than others) and can be finicky to get good conditions. 

Location Suggest change

On the wall bordering the descent slabs for Stately Pleasure. Park at the pullout just west of Stately main parking, and meander up the slabs. Visible from the road, and just right of Death Crack. 

Protection Suggest change

Couple finger size pieces (offsets better) to three bolts, to a single rack. Easy in the wide chimney and with a two bolt anchor on the left wall at the top. Toproping can be hard on your rope, better to lead since the invention of hang-dogging.

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