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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Higgins and Bob Kamps 6/74
Page Views: 222 total · 6/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 17, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This route is actually scarier for the follower than the leader! After the first two bolts on pitch one, make a 5.9+ move left(very bad swing for the follower) and traverse 40-50' left to three bolts which lead up a short headwall(crux) to the belay.

The second pitch climbs up and right past a couple of widely spaced bolts(and gear) to a belay shared with Quiet Desperation.

Easier climbing leads a pitch or two, depending on your ability and rope length, to the top.

Location

This route starts from the top of a small flake about 100-150' downhill from the prominent arch of Arch Rival. Daddy's Little Girl goes straight up. The Way We Were heads up and left. Descend as for South Crack.

Protection

Bolts and small gear.

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