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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome
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Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches |
| FA: | Bob Summers and John Fisher, July 1969 |
| Page Views: | 19,101 total · 127/month |
| Shared By: | Nick Wilder on Jun 24, 2006 |
| Admins: | M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
P1. From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.
P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.
P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.
P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a belay after the crack runs out and the angle drops to 3rd class.
P2. This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.
P3. Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.
P4. More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a belay after the crack runs out and the angle drops to 3rd class.
SLC, UT
Phoenix, AZ
Second pitch corner is sustained and can be hard to see your pro as you place it.
Third pitch is a bit runout - my smallest cam did not fit in the tiny crack near the end.
Fourth pitch is pretty straighforward. Aug 7, 2009
Hailey, ID
Bozeman, MT
JV May 25, 2010
Oakland, Ca
Sierra East Side
Sacramento, CA
Chicago, IL
We had a blast climbing, and in no rush in the morning and still arrived on scene first. Aug 1, 2011
Austin
SLC, Utah
So heads up for those just getting in to 5.7. It's a great route, but that crack on pitch two feels more like 5.8.
Some might consider pitch 3 a bit sparse on protection. I got to the bolted anchors and looked down and realized I had clipped 3 bolts and placed one cam on the 130 ft pitch. I laughed as I thought about the guidebook saying it's "well bolted by Tuolumne standards". Easy climbing but might feel runout.
Recommend to confident 5.7 climbers! Jul 22, 2013
Lancaster, Ca