All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Stately Pleasure Dome

West Country

Name: West Country
Rating: 3.1

5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British

Early Access

A topo that moves with you

Zoom into every pitch before you rack up.

Try Interactive Topos

Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aoxomoxoa S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Boltway, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cross Reference T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Direct White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Far West - Right Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Far West Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Foolish Pleasures T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Gallipoli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Great White Book, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jabberwalky T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jonah T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Kamps-Couch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Miss Adventure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	Potter in Wonderland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Prints of Pleasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Shadow Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Terrapin TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Top Gun T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Turkey Trot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Water Streak #1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Way We Could Have Been, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	White Flake, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

Order Wrong? Sort Routes

Type:	Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
GPS:	37.83546, -119.4577
FA:	Bob Summers and John Fisher, July 1969
Page Views:	30,369 total · 123/month
Shared By:	Nick Wilder on Jun 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

457 Opinions

Your To-Do List: ·

Your Star Rating:
Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change

Your Ticks:Add New Tick

-none-

Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. Details

Please visit nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

Pitch 1. (160ft) From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left on the clean handcrack below where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher at the base of the obvious right-facing corner.

Pitch 2. (80ft) This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.

Pitch 3. (125ft) Slightly runout face climbing past 3 bolts and a cam placement to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 4. (160ft) More fun 5.6/5.7 liebacking. The angle is lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a belay after the crack runs out and the angle drops to 3rd class.

RAP DESCENT: Head west and beneath the headwall where you'll find a small tree. There is a rap station 4’ to 5‘ to climbers right of the tree. Please use instead of tree. Using two 60 meter ropes, rap down under the headwall, past a short vertical section to a rap station that is discreetly tucked up under the headwall. (hard to see until you're right on it) From here rap straight down to the anchor at the top of Jabberwalky. (at the top of a small arch feature, this anchor is also hard to see until you're right on it.) From here - a short rap to a station and then a 60m rap lead down Aoxomoxoa to the big sandy ledge.

WALK OFF: Continue heading up and climbers left to gain the low angle terrain above headwall. Walk off down following cairns and sticking to reasonable low angle terrain with some 3rd class.