Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Bob Summers and John Fisher, July 1969
Page Views: 24,526 total · 130/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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P1. (160ft) From the nice ledge at the start, go straight up (same as Hermaphrodite Flake), heading left just where the flake starts. Belay just a little higher.

P2. (80ft) This is the crux pitch and the most fun. 5.6-5.7 sustained lieback/finger crack climbing for almost 100 feet to a two bolt anchor. Good pro most of the way. Great.

P3. (125ft) Slightly runout face climbing past a few bolts to a two bolt anchor.

P4. (160ft) More fun liebacking. The angle is much lower here, but placing pro is slightly awkward. Set up a belay after the crack runs out and the angle drops to 3rd class.


See photo for Stately Pleasure Dome


standard full rack.