Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches
FA: Tom Naylor, Mary Olsen and Earl Olsen, July 1965
Page Views: 17,594 total · 82/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 24, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

A fun and unique route, with the rare chance for the some well-protected bolt clipping in the second pitch.

Pitch 1. Start straight up as per West Country, belaying just at the bottom of the MONSTER flake.

Pitch 2. Climb under, then through the flake. There's very little pro in there, but it's really easy and you won't go far with a fall. Exit the flake in about 80 feet, where there are two bolts (optional belay). Best to clip one of the bolts and keep going - clinging up the side to the top of the flake. Belay on top from two bolts.

Pitch 3. A nice long face climb past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt belay. Some of the bolts look a little old.

Pitch 4. A short runout face rejoins West Country on it's final pitch. Undercling an overlap until the crack runs out and the angle gets low.

DESCENT:  Either walk off down and left staying under the headwall until it seems reasonable to cut down or follow a series of raps to a big sandy ledge.

RAP DESCENT:  Head west and beneath the headwall where you'll find a small tree. There is a rap station 4’ to 5‘ to climbers right of the tree. Please use instead of tree. Using two 60 meter ropes, rap down under the headwall, past a short vertical section to a rap station that is discreetly tucked up under the headwall.  (hard to see until you're right on it)  From here rap straight down to the anchor at the top of Jabberwalky.  (at the top of a small arch feature, this anchor is also hard to see until you're right on it.)  From here - a short rap to a station and then a 60m rap lead down Aoxomoxoa to the big sandy ledge.

The rap is highly suggested if climbing with children or not familiar with Tuolumne friction.

Protection Suggest change

Normal rack, lots of quickdraws.

Location Suggest change

See photo for Stately Pleasure Dome