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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Tom Naylor, Mary Olsen and Earl Olsen, July 1965
Page Views: 8,778 total, 63/month
Shared By: Nick Wilder on Jun 24, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A fun and unique route, with the rare chance for the some well-protected bolt clipping in the second pitch.

P1. Start straight up as per West Country, belaying just at the bottom of the MONSTER flake.

P2. Climb under, then through the flake. There's very little pro in there, but it's really easy and you won't go far with a fall. Exit the flake in about 80 feet, where there are two bolts (optional belay). Best to clip one of the bolts and keep going - clinging up the side to the top of the flake. Belay on top from two bolts.

P3. A nice long face climb past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt belay. Some of the bolts look a little old.

P4. A short runout face rejoins West Country on it's final pitch. Undercling an overlap until the crack runs out and the angle gets low.

Protection

Normal rack, lots of quickdraws.

Location

See photo for Stately Pleasure Dome
We left a cordelette and a locking beaner at the top of the Boltway. Cordelette has sentlementsl value. If you can retrieve and email Brian at bsecret at hotmail dot com he will happily pay you for postage. Aug 17, 2016
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Going to right of flake was much more psychological and thin than I expected for 5.4. Jul 12, 2016
Fun climb. I tried rappelling with two 60m ropes from the top of the flake, but ended up having to downclimb the last 7 meters (and then back up because the rope got stuck). I would recommend using the intermediate rappel station. Oct 14, 2015
SinRopa
parts unknown
SinRopa   parts unknown
If you're bigger than 6'3'' and 230 lbs, you might think about going right or left before you try climbing through/under the flake. I had my belayer take my pack and still got myself wedged in there and had a heck of a time moving upwards...next to no fall danger though. Sep 6, 2015
Max Rausch
Monterey, California
Max Rausch   Monterey, California
Instead of going under or right at the flake I did a fun steep hand jam mantel to the left and around to the top of the flake. Boltway was super fun and closely bolted unlike most tuolomne climbs. At the top of Boltway, you have a 20 foot unprotected 5.8 traverse to reach the right arching crack. I found myself a little nervous at this point. Jul 10, 2015
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
 
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
 
P1 has a 5.8 variation start (see Reid book). It follows the right facing corner up to a 2 bolt anchor/rap station. The pitch requires small gear (000, 00, 0, C3's) - I always feel like I'm going to peel, but have not taken the slide yet! You can then link up P2 of the flake and rap off - nice 2 pitch warm up or cool down... Jul 29, 2014
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.4
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.4
We planned to rap off after the first pitch of "Boltway" but didn't find any rap rings at the belay, just 3 bolts (2 old). So we finished up boltway and walked off.
Boltway is certainly well bolted, but about half of the bolts are somewhat small and old, and one is a very bad 1/4" rusty bolt.
Fun slab climbing though. Jul 3, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
 
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
 
If you lead the Flake and the first pitch of the Boltway, you can rap off and avoid the walk-off. Aug 20, 2011
David M.H.
los Angeles, ca
 
David M.H.   los Angeles, ca
 
You can actually use one 60m to get down from the top of the flake. With a 70m you can skip that anchor midway and right of the flake and go straight down the flake to a slightly hidden set of chains about 20ft below the bottom of the flake. I think a 60m might make it if it stretches enough - but I can guarantee a 70m works. Then next rappel gets you to the ground. Jul 11, 2011
rex parker
las vegas n.v
rex parker   las vegas n.v
so if you do just hermapadite flake as the two pitches . from the belay/ rappel station above the flake. two sixty meter ropes gets you straight down right to the terrace were you can walk down from Jun 10, 2010
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
For some stellar, heady moves, definitely go right and lie it back all the way--you'll get 5.10 on exposure!

Also, The Boltway is an excellent way to finish up the climbing. Very safely bolted by Tuolumne standards. Dec 18, 2007
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
P2: You can climb the left side, right side, or up through the flake. Called Hermaphrodite flake because it goes both ways.

The Boltway (5.8)
P3: (5.7) several bolts very shady, one is halfway out. The climbing is fairly secure and the bolts are pretty close by Tuolumne standards. Rap rings at the belay here.

P4: (5.8) The crux is the first two bolts from the three bolt belay, then an easy crack and several variations lead to the top. Aug 27, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
The bolted thing is called "Boltway" 5.8 or 5.10a. For more information get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein. Sep 27, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
"Hermaphrodite Flake" actually ends on top of the flake. From there climb either "Eunuch" or the newer thing with all the bolts. Sep 13, 2006