Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 7 pitches, Grade II
FA: Jim Pettigrew and Dave Bircheff, August 1972
Page Views: 1,244 total · 36/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Jul 23, 2018
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

This route is more difficult and sustained than South Crack which is just to the left.  It involves two pitches of crack climbing, the second pitch is a bit awkward, followed by some tricky face climbing to a difficult exit to the top of the dome.  Descend by walking off to the left(south).

From Elmar:

Due to the traversing nature of much of the route, the 2nd should be solid at the grade; this is not a place where you just 'take' when things get hard, exposed, etc.

P1 (5.8)- climb the easy face/crack to a thin, rt. facing corner (crux) and lip, then easier ground to a (really) small belay stance (gear belay) just before a right traversing finger crack.
P2 (5.9 PG13) - traverse right along the finger crack (pretty good feet below) to face moves which eventually lead to a thin flake/rt. facing rounded edge. Downclimb across the lip below (more exposed for 2nd than leader), then angle up and right below the lip to the bolted anchor. The second should be pretty solid on this pitch. Note that the topo in the Reid/Falkenstein book shows the down step much earlier than where it actually happens.
P3 (5.9) - from the anchor climb up, then right into a small corner with a hand crack. Climb down then traverse right on a good undercling/jams with tricky feet. The climbing eases as the undercling/lieback gradually arches upward to the bolted belay.
P4 (5.9 R) - traverse out right on low angle smears/dishes to a bolt. Continue out right toward another bolt, passing a thinner/more technical section then head up and right to the bolted anchor. There are two bolts on this pitch with roughly 30-40' of climbing between each.
P5 (5.8 PG-13/R) - there are multiple options here. From the anchor move out left a little, then up a short, right trending, shallow ramp to a traverse out left on easy ground. There is a green alien to be had in a small shallow flake. From here move out left then up to a small right facing corner or climb a right trending groove into a flake/shallow chimney. When both options meet climb up easy ground a bit longer and step across to the ramp on the left when feasible. We belayed at the base of this ramp. Gear belay.
P6 (5.6) - follow the ramp/groove up and right, then move up a crack for a few feet and belay. Gear belay.
P7 (5.easy +, R) - there are several options to top out/reach lower angle easy terrain. We went left. From the belay angle slightly up and left across the easy (but unprotected) slab toward a weakness in a low angle right facing corner. Surmount the corner and angle slightly up and left toward a prominent crack in another corner. Climb up the crack to a large flake/gear belay. While the climbing here is really easy, a fall would not be good...

Location

Begin a few feet right of South Crack in the obvious right-trending crack.

Protection

While there are a few bolts for both protection and belays take a full rack up to a #3 Camalot.

Photos