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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome
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Aoxomoxoa S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltway, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cross Reference T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Direct White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Far West - Right Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Far West Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Foolish Pleasures T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Gallipoli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Great White Book, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jabberwalky T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jonah T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Kamps-Couch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Miss Adventure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Potter in Wonderland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prints of Pleasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Shadow Nose T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Terrapin TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Top Gun T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Turkey Trot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Water Streak #1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Way We Could Have Been, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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White Flake, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 37.83546, -119.4577 |
| FA: | Pamela Wilson, River Pratt, and Dave Sessions (2021) |
| Page Views: | 3,538 total · 62/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Sessions on Sep 24, 2021 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
A moderate difficulty climb that no longer has the lead bolts (as of 10.30.25)
Pitch 1: Face climb unprotected slab a long ways (or climb the corner on the left where there is some hollow sounding gear). Belay in the corner with med cams. A 70m rope is likely needed to make it to another gear belay if going a full 'pitch' from the bottom of the corner...
Pitch 2: Climb the corner above (5.5). The top of the crack pinches down. Either exit right to Jonah at a lower angle spot (near last ok piece of gear), or step left onto the slab above the corner and go straight up with a 70m rope to a flake that takes 3 or 4s.
Pitch 3: Continue up to the tree at the base of the headwall to facilitate a rap from the glue in bolts with rings. 5.4
DESCENT: Rap to the south (not the base of the route) with two ropes from the glue ins at the base of the headwall.
(You could alternatively down-scramble down this and the neighboring Aoxomoxoa from the top of p2. Skilled climbers have been walking down a lot harder routes than these since the '70s. However, for a leader at the grade it is probably best to continue to the bolts ...Hmm, maybe that's why they call it Jabberwalky?)
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