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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Vern Clevenger & Kevin Leary. July 1979.
Page Views: 406 total · 14/month
Shared By: Gargano on Sep 30, 2015
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Arch Rival is a classic route featuring everything from technical stemming to powerful underclinging, with a roof pull to finish.

Approach pitch: Low 5th class. Climb up and right through huge flakes to a sloping belay. Gear anchor.

The Arch: Take off into an exceptional stretch of stemming and laybacking. This section will keep your head moving as you piece together the crux. Catch a rest. Next comes a super fun length of powerful movement out and under the roof of the arch. Deep breath before tackling the roof finish and traverse to the anchor.

Location

Arch Rival is located on the eastern side of Stately Pleasure Dome. Look for a prominent left-facing arch feature right of South Crack.
Can't miss it.

You can rap from the anchor at the top of the arch to the ground with double 70s. There is an intermediate anchor out on the face.

Protection

0.3"-2.5" Extra small gear.

Fixed anchor.

Photos

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