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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome
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Aoxomoxoa S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Boltway, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cross Reference T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Direct White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Far West - Right Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Far West Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Foolish Pleasures T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Gallipoli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Great White Book, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jabberwalky T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jonah T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Kamps-Couch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Miss Adventure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Potter in Wonderland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Prints of Pleasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Terrapin TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Top Gun T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a |
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Turkey Trot S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Water Streak #1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Way We Could Have Been, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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White Flake, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Dave Sessions, Potter Wonderland and River Pratt (2021) |
| Page Views: | 1,489 total · 40/month |
| Shared By: | Dave Sessions on May 28, 2022 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The direct approach to the White Flake is a far less runout alternative to reaching the moderate (5.5) but very enjoyable and worthwhile White Flake feature itself. P1 and P2 are bolted.
(The party that bolted the route was later told that the route was a free solo that had never been reported.)
Pitch 1: Follow the obvious black streak past a short steep section (5.7) and then continue up as the angle lessens to an anchor at a ledge that divides the face.
Pitch 2: Ascend the corner up and right to the base of a second black streak. Follow the streak past moderate but sustained climbing (5.7) to a natural belay at the base of the White Flake.
Pitch 3: Climb the White Flake straight up (5.5), curve with it to the left and then belay where the angle fades.
DESCENT: Either walk off down and left staying under the headwall until it seems reasonable to cut down or follow a series of raps to a big sandy ledge.
RAP DESCENT: Follow the White Flake crack until you reach a small tree. A rap station sits several feet to the right. Using two 60 meter ropes, rap down under the headwall, past a short vertical section to a rap station that is discreetly tucked up under the headwall. (hard to see until you're right on it) From here rap straight down to the anchor at the top of Jabberwalky. (at the top of a small arch feature, this anchor is also hard to see until you're right on it.) From here - a short rap to a station and then a 60m rap lead down Aoxomoxoa to the big sandy ledge.
The rap is highly suggested if climbing with children or not familiar with Tuolumne friction.
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