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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 70 ft
FA: Vern Clevenger, August 1975
Page Views: 2,578 total, 23/month
Shared By: Greg DeMatteo on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Obvious left leaning flake/crack up to a small roof with a wide section for the last few body lengths. Decent hands quickly become big hands on very steep terrain. An excellent and striking feature that will challenge pretty much anyone. A great toprope as well.

Location

Continue a couple hundred feet up the far left slab on Stately Pleasure past Dark Angel. Look for the only extremely steep hand sized left leaning flake/crack.

Protection

Doubles from #1 - #5 (C4) Camalot. The old style #5 Camalot will not fit in the upper crack. Can be easily set up as a top rope though you will probably want to put a cam or two in the crack to avoid massive swing.

Photos

Christina Freschl
Berkeley, California
 
Christina Freschl   Berkeley, California
 
This is an intimating route with a grainy start. I started laybacking the route, but quickly discovered that straight-in jamming (hands to fists) worked well to get through the first part. Then pull through flakes to get to the offwidth. I used a #5 camalot to protect the top section. Chains at the top help keep the rack light (of course there are the 2-#3s, 1 #4, 2 #5s, and 1 #6 (didn't need) that I brought:) Jul 7, 2012