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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 65 ft
FA: Chris Falkenstein and Don Reid, July 1979
Page Views: 3,484 total, 31/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

A good challenging lieback/finger crack climb. Bust a powerful, awkward move off the ground and continue underclinging, jamming, and liebacking the awesome right-angling crack to the top.

Location

Just west of Stately Pleasure Dome. Park just east of the Murphy Creek picnic area. The route, a right-angling fingercrack/flake that intersects a prominent black streak, faces southwest and will be visible from the road.

Protection

Lots of small stuff. I took:
Doubles from blue alien to .75 camalot
Single #1 and #2

There's no anchor on top, so bring 2 extra .75 camalots + 1 #12 BD Stopper for the anchor on top, + 3 long slings for extending the pieces over a blunt edge. If you're going to run laps, this makes a great TR anchor.

Photos

Kelly Rich  
 
I suppose chains at the top are an improvement. It was a hassle to walk off. Still, something about adding bolts to an otherwise boltless climb; the climb certainly isn't as naturally picturesque and aesthetically beautiful.

In the first real TMeadows guide (the underground guide written by Alan Nelson), the route is the first one listed in the guide and is titled Black Angel of Death. Seeing that the name it now bares is given by the FA'ists/guidebook authors, I suppose Black Angel it is. Still, I wonder if a name-change was made early on, for one reason or another. Jun 9, 2016
ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
This route is equipped with bolts and chains at the anchor. No need to walk-off. Jul 6, 2015