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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 65 ft
FA: Chris Falkenstein and Don Reid, July 1979
Page Views: 3,944 total · 32/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

A good challenging lieback/finger crack climb. Bust a powerful, awkward move off the ground and continue underclinging, jamming, and liebacking the awesome right-angling crack to the top.

Location

Just west of Stately Pleasure Dome. Park just east of the Murphy Creek picnic area. The route, a right-angling fingercrack/flake that intersects a prominent black streak, faces southwest and will be visible from the road.

Protection

Lots of small stuff. I took:
Doubles from blue alien to .75 camalot
Single #1 and #2

There's no anchor on top, so bring 2 extra .75 camalots + 1 #12 BD Stopper for the anchor on top, + 3 long slings for extending the pieces over a blunt edge. If you're going to run laps, this makes a great TR anchor.

Photos

ACassebeer
Mojave, CA
 
ACassebeer   Mojave, CA
 
This route is equipped with bolts and chains at the anchor. No need to walk-off. Jul 6, 2015
Kelly Rich  
 
I suppose chains at the top are an improvement. It was a hassle to walk off. Still, something about adding bolts to an otherwise boltless climb; the climb certainly isn't as naturally picturesque and aesthetically beautiful.

In the first real TMeadows guide (the underground guide written by Alan Nelson), the route is the first one listed in the guide and is titled Black Angel of Death. Seeing that the name it now bares is given by the FA'ists/guidebook authors, I suppose Black Angel it is. Still, I wonder if a name-change was made early on, for one reason or another. Jun 9, 2016
John Clark
San Francisco, CA
  5.11- PG13
John Clark   San Francisco, CA
  5.11- PG13
Jut did this over the weekend. I would say the boulder off the deck into the first traverse was at least V2 and with at least one fiddly piece of pro to protect groundfall. That said, it's excellent liebacking and sows up easily besides the one short sequence getting to the vertical flake. Definitely a sting in the tail route. Excellent for extended laps on tr. Gave it PG13 due to the trickiness of placing a critical piece, not because the rock is bad or the placement isn't obvious. Jul 16, 2018

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