Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA: Gordon Webster, Frank de Saussure and TM Herbert, 1965
Page Views: 28,168 total · 150/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jul 9, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Description

South Crack is a great climb that begins with several pitches of gradually steepening clean 5.8 finger cracks and then finishes with some rather run out 5.7+ slabs to the summit.

Begin at the southernmost foot of the dome, right of the Great White Book. Scramble up 4th class ledges and low angle rock towards the obvious crack/flake system until it becomes necessary to belay. Depending on your comfort level (or willingness to simul), you can eliminate a lot of belays by pushing the approach high. At the end of the cracks you'll find some wandering, unprotected slabs that lead to the summit. It may be best to head relatively straight up (easier), or to link small features (pro).

In the early season expect the top of the route to be very wet from snow melt on the summit.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos