All Locations > California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Stately Pleasure Dome

South Crack

Name: South Crack
Rating: 3.4

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R

Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aoxomoxoa S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
	Arch Rival T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	Barely Anything T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Boltway, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Corner Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Cross Reference T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Direct White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
	Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Far West - Right Side T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Far West Country T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Foolish Pleasures T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
	Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Gallipoli T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Jabberwalky T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Jonah T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
	Kamps-Couch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Miss Adventure T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
	Potter in Wonderland S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Prints of Pleasure S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Quiet Desperation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Step It Up and Go T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
	Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	Top Gun T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Turkey Trot S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Unknown S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
	Water Streak #1 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Water streak #2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
	Way We Could Have Been, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
	Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	White Flake, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

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Type:	Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA:	Gordon Webster, Frank de Saussure and TM Herbert, 1965
Page Views:	30,161 total · 149/month
Shared By:	Josh Janes on Jul 9, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and falcon closures. Details

Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ for the latest information on visiting Yosemite.

Ongoing Issues:
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions.

Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.

Description

South Crack is a great climb that begins with several pitches of gradually steepening clean 5.8 finger cracks and then finishes with some rather run out 5.7+ slabs to the summit.

Begin at the southernmost foot of the dome, right of the Great White Book. Scramble up 4th class ledges and low angle rock towards the obvious crack/flake system until it becomes necessary to belay. Depending on your comfort level (or willingness to simul), you can eliminate a lot of belays by pushing the approach high. At the end of the cracks you'll find some wandering, unprotected slabs that lead to the summit. It may be best to head relatively straight up (easier), or to link small features (pro).

In the early season expect the top of the route to be very wet from snow melt on the summit.