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Routes in Stately Pleasure Dome

Arch Rival T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black Angel T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Boltway T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cross Reference T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Daddy's Little Girl T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Death Crack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dixie Peach T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Eunuch T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Footnote T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Get Slick T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Great White Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Hermaphrodite Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mosquito T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Shadow Nose T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sweet Nothings T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Table of Contents T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Turning Japanese T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Way We Were, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
West Country T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
White Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Don Reid & Alan Bartlett, 6/81
Page Views: 459 total, 6/month
Shared By: TheIceManCometh on Dec 13, 2011
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

1st pitch: follow left leaning flake/ramp until it ensd and then go up face to small roof. Climb past roof and a couple bolts (10a) to ledge on left.

About 75' ft if memory serves.

2nd pitch. Ideally belay on left side of ledge. Climb corner and hand traverse right under roof and pull past roof into small right facing corner. Transition from corner to thin face past a number of bolts to belay on long, narrow ledge. 10d crux is above the corner on first few bolts. It was a dyno for me.

About 90' ft, I think.

3rd pitch. Up corner/roof system. Easy 5th to top of dome.

Location

This climb is on the far right side of Stately Pleasure Dome (east side, by the road). The approach isn't long, but you do have to angle up right along the face. It's just left of Shy Tuna and Babe Roof.

Protection

Mostly single set of cams to 2" and a bunch of draws. Good pro, especially at cruxes.

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