Type: Trad, Alpine, 160 ft (48 m)
FA: Bob Summers, John Gibbins and Sue German (1969)
Page Views: 2,689 total · 61/month
Shared By: Dave Sessions on Sep 20, 2021
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

This is the oldest route on Stately Pleasure left of The White Flake and in terms of quality is probably the best pitch of 5.6 crack anywhere.

Climb the obvious crack in the corner and then make sketchy little moves onto a ledge which traverses right allowing you to gain access to the upper crack. Follow this outstanding splitter to the rap station of Potter in Wonderland.

Far West Country is accurately described in Steve Roper's 1976 'Climbers Guide to the High Sierra'.  The lower section of the crack was never properly cleaned which kept most people off the route.  (A recent party spent over 5 hours cleaning this 30' section of crack at the base and carried away a 3' tall pile of dirt and debris.)

DO NOT RAP DOWN OVER THE CRACKS unless you want your ropes to get eaten.  Rap down to the west over Potter in Wonderland with two 60m ropes.

Location Suggest change

In between Potter in Wonderland on the left and Kamps-Couch on the right.

Protection Suggest change

Pro to 3 inches.

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