Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Stately Pleasure Dome

California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows
Warning Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations. DetailsDrop down

Description

Okay, so it's on the highway and tons of tourists will gawk at you, but still, this is one of the most beautiful climbing settings anywhere. It rises about 500 feet right out of Lake Tenaya with beautiful views of the lake, Tenaya Peak, and many other Tuolumne features.

Getting There

It's the great big dome on the north side of the highway next to Tenaya Lake. Easy parking all along the base.

To descend all routes: head up and left (west) until you can descend 3rd and 4th class slabs near a steep headwall. Although it is steep in spots, this is walk-off descent. Rope up if you need to, but please DO NOT RAP OFF THE TREES - these trees have suffered a bit of damage over the years from ropes and slings and should not be used.

See photo.

Routes from Left to Right

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 45
● Black Angel
Trad, Alpine
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 11
● Death Crack
Trad, Alpine
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 2
● Top Gun
Trad, Alpine
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 12
● Jabberwalky
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 9
● Aoxomoxoa
Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 5
● Jonah
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 22
● Turkey Trot
Sport, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
● Gallipoli
Trad, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
● Potter in Wonderland
Sport, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 17
● Far West Country
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 4
● Far West - Right Side
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
● Terrapin
TR, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 4
● Kamps-Couch
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 3
● Water Streak #1
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
● Direct White Flake
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 1
● Unknown
Sport, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 17
● The White Flake
Trad, Alpine
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 4
● Shadow Nose
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 392
● West Country
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 284
● Hermaphrodite Flake
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 167
● The Boltway
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 10
● Eunuch
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 19
● Footnote
Trad, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 30
● Table of Contents
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 2
● Cross Reference
Trad, Alpine
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
 215
● The Great White Book
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 2
● Mosquito
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 9
● Get Slick
Trad, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 10
● Sweet Nothings
Trad, Alpine
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 20
● Dixie Peach
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
 475
● South Crack
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 13
● Quiet Desperation
Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 6
● Barely Anything
Trad, Alpine
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 1
● Prints of Pleasure
Sport, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 4
● Step It Up and Go
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 3
● Foolish Pleasures
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 0
● Miss Adventure
Trad, Alpine
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
 1
● The Way We Could Have Been
Trad, Alpine
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 1
● The Way We Were
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
● Daddy's Little Girl
Trad, Alpine
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 2
● Dreams
Trad, Alpine
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 9
● Arch Rival
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 2
● Turning Japanese
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Black Angel
 45
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine
● Death Crack
 11
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine
● Top Gun
 2
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Trad, Alpine
● Jabberwalky
 12
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
● Aoxomoxoa
 9
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Sport, Alpine 2 pitches
● Jonah
 5
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
● Turkey Trot
 22
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, Alpine
● Gallipoli
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
● Potter in Wonderland
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, Alpine
● Far West Country
 17
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
● Far West - Right Side
 4
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
● Terrapin
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR, Alpine
● Kamps-Couch
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
● Water Streak #1
 3
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine
● Direct White Flake
 7
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
● Unknown
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Sport, Alpine
● The White Flake
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine
● Shadow Nose
 4
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● West Country
 392
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● Hermaphrodite Flake
 284
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● The Boltway
 167
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
● Eunuch
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
● Footnote
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine
● Table of Contents
 30
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
● Cross Reference
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine
● The Great White Book
 215
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Mosquito
 2
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
● Get Slick
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine
● Sweet Nothings
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine
● Dixie Peach
 20
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
● South Crack
 475
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
● Quiet Desperation
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, Alpine 7 pitches
● Barely Anything
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine
● Prints of Pleasure
 1
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, Alpine
● Step It Up and Go
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
● Foolish Pleasures
 3
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
● Miss Adventure
 0
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine
● The Way We Could Have Been
 1
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine
● The Way We Were
 1
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
● Daddy's Little Girl
 3
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine
● Dreams
 2
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine
● Arch Rival
 9
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
● Turning Japanese
 2
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 3 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stately Pleasure Dome on an October afternoon.
[Hide Photo] Stately Pleasure Dome on an October afternoon.
Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake.<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Stately Pleasure Dome, Tenaya Lake. Photo by Blitzo.
Routes facing the lake
[Hide Photo] Routes facing the lake
I found the descent on this dome intimidating, as did my partner. if you are not aware of how to do it, it can be a problem. I had double ropes and did two raps, the first was from the top tree (1) and then from another tree on the headwall (2) to location 3. Then we walked down the rest of the slabs.
[Hide Photo] I found the descent on this dome intimidating, as did my partner. if you are not aware of how to do it, it can be a problem. I had double ropes and did two raps, the first was from the top tree (…
Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1985.<br> Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] Kurt Smith on an attempt at "Top Gun", 1985. Photo by Blitzo.
Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome
[Hide Photo] Descent down Stately Pleasure Dome
Q: On a day like this, do you prefer to climb or take pictures?<br> <br> A: Yes<br> <br> September 2011<br>
[Hide Photo] Q: On a day like this, do you prefer to climb or take pictures? A: Yes September 2011
Stopped at a small terrace on the way down to enjoy the view
[Hide Photo] Stopped at a small terrace on the way down to enjoy the view
Erica descends the slabs on Stately Pleasure Dome. 7/2012.<br> <br> Photo: Corey Gargano
[Hide Photo] Erica descends the slabs on Stately Pleasure Dome. 7/2012. Photo: Corey Gargano
Rapping from tree on descent - sunset on half dome and Tenaya in the background (Sept 25, 2015)
[Hide Photo] Rapping from tree on descent - sunset on half dome and Tenaya in the background (Sept 25, 2015)
stately pleasure dome and harlequin dome at sunrise
[Hide Photo] stately pleasure dome and harlequin dome at sunrise
Tenaya Lake and Half Dome off in the distance from the top of SPD.
[Hide Photo] Tenaya Lake and Half Dome off in the distance from the top of SPD.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
[Hide Comment] The name comes from the poem Kubla Khan online-literature.com/coler… by Samuel Taylor Coleridge. Sep 28, 2006
Richard O'Neal
Lancaster, Ca
[Hide Comment] In lieu of the normal decent, we tried the allegedly easier "walk off" around the west side. There were rock stackings for trail markers. However, it seemed just as sketchy as the normal decent and took much longer. Jun 27, 2016
Matt Hostetler
[Hide Comment] Anyone else have beta or opinions on the easier walk off? Jul 10, 2018
Daniel Heins
Seattle
[Hide Comment] For the normal descent bring some webbing/cord in case the stuff on the tree is in poor condition (if you want to give yourself the option of the rap for that spot). Someone also had slung a tree for a second possible rappel, but I think you still have to do other sections that are worse than that just by carefully walking (or butt-scooting if you prefer) Aug 13, 2018
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
[Hide Comment] As of Sep-2018 there were cairns that marked the way to the easy (though a bit longer) walk off, on the northwest side of the dome. We topped out South Crack and headed that way, eventually scrambling down easy ledges and slabs (3rd class at most in places) and then down along the gully and back to the road. Takes about 20-25 minutes to get back to your car. Other than some annoying bushwhacking in places, it is easy and avoids the sketchy slabs for the normal descent. There is a faint trail for a good part of the way, once you're in the gully. Sep 24, 2018
JaredG
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] This thread suggests there may now be bolts to rap the standard descent. mountainproject.com/forum/t…

Walking down definitely feels sketchy the first time, but it's doable and part of the Tuolumne experience. Jun 13, 2019
Sarah Schlaefke
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Seconding what Jason Kim said, as of Sept. 2019, the cairns are still in place to walk off the northwest side of the dome. Really easy, with only one or two 3 foot ledges to scramble off of to the next tear of slab. Sep 4, 2019
wes arrrr
[Hide Comment] as of writing, there are two sets of rap anchors: one at the tree, and the other below. A single 70m rope works well. We opted to walk off after using the first rap anchor next to the tree. Aug 17, 2020
Christian Hesch
Morro Bay
[Hide Comment] It seems that many people are turning far too early at the giant R facing book and sketchily downclimbing or unnecessarily rapping from trees. Continue NW and the descent is beyond easy, one single 7ft section of 5.0 downclimbing, almost zero exposure, you can jog half the descent. If you can't jog/speedwalk, you're not on the descent and you prob turned too early. Skiers R for longer than you think, then start heading down, it's hard *not* to find it. Look at Rodger's photo, or I'll try to post one after this weekend. Oct 6, 2020
Nick Ruggero
Pacifica, CA
[Hide Comment] If you really fancy walking the minimal amount on the walking on the "walk off" you can do 3 raps now. Tree -> underneath overhang on skier's right in corner -> down towards a large tree on the big ledge directly towards tenaya to the top of Aoxomoxoa. The final rap off of Aoxomoxoa is slightly short with our pair of 60m ropes but easy scramble down. From there its an easy walk down with nothing too steep. Oct 3, 2022
Michael Decker
Mammoth Lakes, CA
[Hide Comment] Anyone know anything about the west face of SP dome? There's an interesting looking slab about 1/2 mile up the murphy creek trail (not the murphy creek wall listed elsewhere). Oct 22, 2022