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Areas in Quail Springs Area

AFPA Rock 17 / 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 20
Baskerville Rock 9 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Courthouse Formation 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Erotic Dome 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Hound Rock 5 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Johnny Lang Crags 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Lizard's Landing 9 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Main Gate Rock 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Mini Crag 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Negropolis Hillside 11 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Trashcan Rock 25 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Vagmarken Hill 31 / 1 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 34
White Cliffs of Dover 24 / 1 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 27

Description

The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). There is a paved parking area, restroom, etc. The main attraction here is Trashcan Rock, which hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes. Not many of the climbs are all that great, but it is popular nonetheless.

In addition to Trashcan Rock, use the parking area to access Baskerville Rock, Hound Rock, and the White Cliffs of Dover. Be sure to check out Right Baskerville Crack (5.10a) on Baskerville Rock as well as Popular Mechanics (5.9) and Ace of Spades (5.9) on White Cliffs of Dover.

Getting There

The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). It is about 6 miles from the West Entrance kiosk and is signed.

177 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Quail Springs Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
The Ranch Hand
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tiptoe
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cranny
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace of Spades
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popular Mechanics
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Baskerville Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tossed Green
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
B for Beers
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Make or Break Flake
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Left Sawdust Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Field and Stream
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Housekeeping
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Butterfly Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soviet Union
Trad
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Boulder Crack
Trad
The Ranch Hand Vagmarken Hill > Ranch 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Tiptoe Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cranny Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ace of Spades White Cliffs of D… > White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Popular Mechanics White Cliffs of D… > White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Right Baskerville Crack Baskerville Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tossed Green Hound Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
B for Beers Negropolis Hillside > Negropolis 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Make or Break Flake White Cliffs of D… > White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Left Sawdust Crack Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - E Face 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Field and Stream White Cliffs of D… > White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Good Housekeeping White Cliffs of D… > White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Butterfly Crack Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - E Face 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Soviet Union White Cliffs of D… > White Cliffs of Dover - Right Side 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Boulder Crack AFPA Rock 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Randy  
Hahaha,

Actually, it was called Trashcan Rock by climbers long before Wolfe's 1976 guide (least of all the 1979 edition). By 1973, the name Trashcan Rock was firmly established. While the Park Service has long referred to the area as Quail Springs Picnic Area, they never named the formation.

BTW: No one I met ever called it "The Wye" or "Picnic Area." Sep 5, 2011
Murf  
The rock itself is Trashcan Rock, the area (including much more than Trashcan) is Quail Springs. It is the pullout itself that is in question; the so-called "Quail Springs Day Use Area". Aug 30, 2011
RTM
RTM  
Bartlett also refers to it as Trashcan Rock, yet the old Wolfe guides call it Quail Springs. Curious? Aug 30, 2011
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
I believe if you read any of the information above you'll see he does have the good sense to use the name Trashcan Rock, as it has been known to climbers for decades. Aug 28, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Really pleased that Chris Miller at Mountainproject had the imagination, wisdom, and good sense to retain the name Quail Springs for this area and not follow Randy Vogel's guides and call it trashcan rock. Aug 28, 2011

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