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Quail Springs Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Quail Springs Area

AFPA Rock 25 / 0 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 32

Baskerville Rock 10 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12

Courthouse Formation 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Erotic Dome 7 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Hound Rock 7 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Johnny Lang Crags 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Lizard's Landing 9 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11

Main Gate Rock 5 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6

Micro Crag 10 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10

Mini Crag 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Miniscule Crag 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

Nano Crag 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4

Quail Springs Area | 9303 75 / 10 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 102

Teeny Weeny Crag 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Trashcan Rock 27 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28

Vagmarken Hill 35 / 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 41

Voice's Crag 14 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 16

White Cliffs of Dover 31 / 1 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 37

Explore this area in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	3,976 ft	1,212 m
GPS:	34.0402, -116.1976 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	294,300 total · 1,048/month
Shared By:	Mike Morley on Nov 19, 2002
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

The Quail Springs Picnic Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West (Joshua Tree) Entrance of the park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). There is a paved parking area, restroom, etc. The main attraction here is Trashcan Rock, which hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes. Not many of the climbs are all that great, but it is popular nonetheless.

In addition to Trashcan Rock, use the parking area to access Baskerville Rock, Hound Rock, and the White Cliffs of Dover. Be sure to check out Right Baskerville Crack (5.10a) on Baskerville Rock as well as Popular Mechanics (5.9) and Ace of Spades (5.9) on White Cliffs of Dover.

Getting There

The Quail Springs Picnic Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West (Joshua Tree) Entrance of the park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). It is about six miles east from the entrance station and is signed.

337 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Quail Springs Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 237 ● Tiptoe Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 174 ● Cranny Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 80 ● Wilted Flower Children Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 347 ● Ace of Spades Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 443 ● Popular Mechanics Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 82 ● Jack of Hearts Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 183 ● Right Baskerville Crack Trad Baskerville Rock
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 184 ● Tossed Green Trad Hound Rock
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 82 ● Left Sawdust Crack Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - E Face
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 121 ● Profundity Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 91 ● Field and Stream Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 50 ● Good Housekeeping Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 8 ● Dance on Fire Trad Quail Springs A… > Negropolis Hillside \|…
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 46 ● Butterfly Crack Trad Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - E Face
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 10 ● Soviet Union Trad White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…