Quail Springs Area Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 3,976 ft | 1,212 m |
| GPS: |
34.0402, -116.1976 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 294,874 total · 1,031/month | |
| Shared By: | Mike Morley on Nov 19, 2002 | |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The Quail Springs Picnic Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West (Joshua Tree) Entrance of the park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). There is a paved parking area, restroom, etc. The main attraction here is Trashcan Rock, which hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes. Not many of the climbs are all that great, but it is popular nonetheless.
In addition to Trashcan Rock, use the parking area to access Baskerville Rock, Hound Rock, and the White Cliffs of Dover. Be sure to check out Right Baskerville Crack (5.10a) on Baskerville Rock as well as Popular Mechanics (5.9) and Ace of Spades (5.9) on White Cliffs of Dover.
Classic Climbing Routes at Quail Springs Area
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