Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 3,976 ft 1,212 m
GPS: 34.0402, -116.1976
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 293,408 total · 1,121/month
Shared By: Mike Morley on Nov 19, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). There is a paved parking area, restroom, etc. The main attraction here is Trashcan Rock, which hosts a high concentration of easier routes (5.0 - 5.6), a few moderates (5.7 - 5.9), and a few harder routes (5.10 - 5.11). Several routes warrant an 'R' or 'X' rating, and as such there are usually quite a few topropes. Not many of the climbs are all that great, but it is popular nonetheless.

In addition to Trashcan Rock, use the parking area to access Baskerville Rock, Hound Rock, and the White Cliffs of Dover. Be sure to check out Right Baskerville Crack (5.10a) on Baskerville Rock as well as Popular Mechanics (5.9) and Ace of Spades (5.9) on White Cliffs of Dover.

Getting There Suggest change

The Quail Springs Day Use Area is the first major landmark on your right if you are driving in from the West Entrance of the Park (i.e., the town of Joshua Tree). It is about 6 miles from the West Entrance kiosk and is signed.

314 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Quail Springs Area Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Quail Springs Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 30
The Ranch Hand
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 229
Tiptoe
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 169
Cranny
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 304
Ace of Spades
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 396
Popular Mechanics
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 72
Jack of Hearts
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 172
Right Baskerville Crack
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 174
Tossed Green
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 80
Left Sawdust Crack
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 117
Profundity
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 82
Field and Stream
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 46
Good Housekeeping
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
 7
Dance on Fire
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 44
Butterfly Crack
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 10
Soviet Union
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Ranch Hand Vagmarken Hill > Vagmarken Hill… > (g) The Ranch
 30
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Tiptoe Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face
 229
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Cranny Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face
 169
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Ace of Spades White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
 304
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Popular Mechanics White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
 396
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Jack of Hearts White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
 72
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Right Baskerville Crack Baskerville Rock
 172
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Tossed Green Hound Rock
 174
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Left Sawdust Crack Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - E Face
 80
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Profundity Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face
 117
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Field and Stream White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
 82
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Good Housekeeping White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
 46
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Dance on Fire Negropolis Area > Negropolis
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Butterfly Crack Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - E Face
 44
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Soviet Union White Cliffs of… > White Cliffs of Dover…
 10
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
More Classic Climbs in Quail Springs Area »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading