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Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face

B-1 T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Chris Wegener, February 1973
Page Views: 2,020 total, 12/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Feb 7, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a west face route to the right of B-2. There are two bolts and getting to the first one is around 5.8 and high enough to get hurt. Moving by the first bolt is somewhat height dependent. For me at 5'9" it's a 10b. From the second bolt go straight up(10c) or traverse right and up--easier (5.10a).

Protection

Two bolts, pro to 2.5" for anchors
Ryan Watts
Bishop, CA
  5.10a PG13
Ryan Watts   Bishop, CA
  5.10a PG13
I thought in between the first and second bolts was the crux (basically the moves right after you clip the first bolt). I wouldn't call it run out but falling from near the second bolt would be a bad idea. Obviously don't deck before you clip the first bolt either (you could probably fiddle in some gear if you're worried). Feb 17, 2014
alex carey  
 
weird, i had no problem getting past the first bolt and standing on the horizontals, but wasn't able to finish the climb and get beyond the second bolt. Oct 19, 2013
Matt Michael
Oceanside, CA
  5.10c PG13
Matt Michael   Oceanside, CA
  5.10c PG13
Pretty fun imo Jan 26, 2013
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c PG13
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
  5.10c PG13
I thought the harder move was after clipping the second bolt and heading straight up the line. Tenuous and interesting smear with good body tension. Fun move. Of course I underestimated the beginning move past the first bolt and slipped off... The PG-13 rating probably comes from the run out to the top above the second bolt. If you fell near the top (and there really isn't any reason to - it's probably 5.9 slab), you would deck for sure. Just makes you a bit nervous knowing you cannot mess up the upper section. Dec 27, 2012
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10c
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.10c
Done this one a million times, and watched a million people on it. Crux for people is definitely getting to the horizontals and then standing on them. Height dependent difficulty there for sure. Can't see any PG or R rating, the only chance you have of getting hurt on lead is if you accidently slip on the first five feet, but you wouldn't get hurt bad and that is pretty normal for all routes. A spotter is nice for that. Otherwise just a real fun classic route to me. I have a video of John Long climbing it in '91 and he walks all over it like it's nothing at all. Mar 18, 2011
Makes a great toprope for slab climbing practice. Moving up from the first bolt seems to be the crux move. Can be frustrating but fun. Sep 9, 2010
Thomas Thelen
Prescott, AZ
  5.10c R
Thomas Thelen   Prescott, AZ
  5.10c R
ah yet another reminder that I don't enjoy face climbing as much as crack climbing. I'm 6'4" and it didn't help that much, getting past that first bolt it challenging to say the least. Apr 7, 2009
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
Not sure why it's "R". Good wire below the first bolt if you want to stop and put it in. Move past the first bolt seemed like 5.10a, but just one move to good horizontal rail, for me the crux was oozing up past the second bolt. May 24, 2008
72HW Holly
  5.10c R
72HW Holly  
  5.10c R
Stepped onto this one with confidence, then came the whole getting to that first bolt thing... luckily a friend swung over from Tip Toe and clipped the thing for me. So then I tried to lead past that bolt, no go. Just felt so wonky. Backed off and top roped it. The mantel is solid, hardest part for me was moving past the second bolt. Not one I'd like to lead any time soon. Mar 3, 2008
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Just another 5.10 slab. Sep 10, 2006
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
Good beginner intro to Jtree slab climbing...Learning to trust those shoes. Mar 13, 2006
namascar
  5.10c
namascar  
  5.10c
After the first bolt feels like 10b, but after the second feels a bit harder, 10c is fair. Mar 21, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
I agree with Bo and Mike that getting past that first bolt is a doozy. And the Bo man nails it bringing up how polished it is. I remember many years back when it was not so and was easier........soon it will be upgraded to 5.glass considering how many people frequent the area........I have led it many, many times as has my son. When on Trashcan......it's a must do for us.......... Feb 9, 2005
Bo Johnston
  5.10b
Bo Johnston  
  5.10b
I agree with Mike. The hardest part of the climb is passing the 1st bolt. The rock is very polished in that area at your feet from all those before... I'm 6'3" and still, it's a lot of work to reach the better hoizontals above. After that, going straight up is no problem and no harder than 10a. I don't really see why anyone would head right and get away from the natural line. It doesn't seem all that much easier and certainly not as fun. This is a very good route for learning how well this J-Tree stone will stick to your shoes!!!!! Feb 9, 2005
I agree Mike I think the crux is getting to the first bolt. once you get over your feet, it seems to get easier. Nov 16, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I found the crux to be getting past the first bolt. Beyond that, I would call the remainder of the route 5.9ish. Nov 16, 2004