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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Allen Steck, Dick Erbst - 1989
Page Views: 709 total, 8/month
Shared By: Eric Foltz on Jun 14, 2010 with updates
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb the chimney 25' right of Popular Mechanics then the awkward hand crack above.

Location

Route starts in the Chimney 25' right of Popular Mechanics

Protection

Gear to 2", rap anchor at top.

Photos

- No Photos -
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Fun route. Definitely worth doing! Nov 21, 2017
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.8+
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.8+
Did this route while waiting for another party on Popular Mechanics, and found it very enjoyable. Like it much better than Jack of Hearts. Worth doing if you are out there.

Expected the chimney down low to be dirty/crumbly but rock was clean the whole way. Rap slings on top. Mar 20, 2017
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.9
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.9
A red sewn sling up top was placed 1/1/2012 (by the party next to us), the older tied cord and two biners looked to still be in decent shape as well. You should see the anchor hanging over the edge of the rock; the configuration is two bolts plus two slings and two biners.

This route is good, worth doing. The lower section is fairly easy and can be sandy, but has some fun movement. The upper hand crack is a bit short but pretty tough and a worthwhile endeavor. I thought it was harder than popular mechanics to the left, but that's probably because of having novice jam technique. Jan 3, 2012