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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, September 2012
Page Views: 1,903 total · 26/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Sep 27, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This link-up connects the start of Good Housekeeping to Stone Hinge, offering a 35 meter pitch of varied climbing on excellent rock. One of the longest and best pitches on the White Cliffs.

Begin with the start of Good Housekeeping. After the first bolt (5.10c) continue up the vertical crack to a ledge. Step left onto an arete and climb a slabby ramp past 5 new bolts (5.10-), then move right and jam a short but sweet finger crack (now on Stone Hinge). Move left at a horizontal fingertip crack to a ledge, then step right and lieback a tricky arete past 2 bolts (5.10c), moving right after the second bolt up to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.

Location

You can lower-off or rap with a 70 meter rope.

With a 60 meter rope you can make a short rappel to the Popular Mechanics anchor then rappel 85 feet to the ground.

Protection

8 bolts, a 1.5 to 2 inch CD for the crack after the first bolt, then medium to large stoppers and CDs from .25 to 1 inch for the upper crack.

Photos

Fluoride
Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c PG13
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
  5.10c PG13
HARD start, glad that fixed nut was in there before the first bolt. 10c moves. After that good 10a face moves bolted to a great finger crack. Then pull the lip to an arete bolted on the right. The move to gain that is probably 10c again. Heady move. From there to the topout is just fun.

Bob has a brilliant eye for lines and this is yet another brilliant line he's found in a place that should have been discovered long ago being as close to Popular Mechanics as it is. Thoughtfully bolted, long and fun. Honestly to me the opening moves were the hardest. The rest comes together perfectly. Challenging at times but so much fun. One I'll definitely be back to do again. Nov 6, 2012
Brian Chastain
  5.10c
Brian Chastain  
  5.10c
This is likely the best route up there. I disagree on the PG13, at least for the start. First bolt ain't but 10-12' off the ground and you make the clip from a jug. If there were anything I would consider PG13 would be the potential to take a fall on the Noline something like the fourth to fifth bolt up. Amazing fun this thing was. Nov 14, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Very fun indeed! Probably three cruxes on this rascal... opening set of moves to 1st bolt (no fixed nut just go-go-go), transition right about mid-way point is heady but does have excellent thin edges and lastly with the wild body tension of the headwall arete to gain the anchors. This was super good, thanks Bob! Nov 30, 2014
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
 
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
 
Bob - you're a rock star. This this is another brilliant route. Well done sir. Fixed nut was gone, and I'm usually not one to hesitate on a runout start to the first bolt in JTree - but the steep moves and nasty fall potential into the yucca made me glad I had brought up a stick clip just for this route. Perhaps I could have fished in a nut midway, but since I had the bolt clipped I didn't check. Hopefully the high first bolt doesn't keep people off this wonderful route, but I have a feeling it will. The rest of the route is perfectly protected with enough excitement to make it feel worthwhile. The splitter crack in the middle was just icing on the cake. Thanks Bob! Nov 21, 2017

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