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Routes in Johnny Lang Crags

Fissure King T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hibiscus Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Love Affair with a Wheelbarrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Trash S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

Description

Of the many crags in the area located high on the mountain west of the White Cliffs of Dover only four have documented routes. The crags face west or northwest and remain shady during the morning. Most of the routes (both trad and bolted) were established by Mike Lechlinski and Mari Gingery and are, therefore, relatively difficult. White Trash (5.11+) ascends a stellar face, Evil Tree (5.12b/c) goes up an overhanging face to large roof, and Fissure King (5.10a) climbs an initially thin and vertical crack that widens and goes over two small roofs. More routes are described in, "Rock Climbs of Lost Horse Valley" by Alan Bartlett and will be included in Randy's new guidebook.

Getting There

From Trash Can Rock take the trail that heads toward Baskerville Rock but veer right into a west - east wash a few hundred yards before Baskerville Rock. The wash narrows into a drainage and goes up a steep but short section over polished boulders. When the steep section ends the drainage veers left in a south - north direction. Follow the drainage toward the Johnny Lang Crags which are visible high on the mountain side slightly left of the wash. When the drainage ends in a small cul-de-sac climb the steep grade to the crags.

4 Total Climbs

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joed  
Good beta. Definitely stay in the wash until you can put eyes on it. When reading the guide book, at first we thought we were to head up after passing the polished boulders and reaching the flat spot in the wash. Still a hike from there.
Well worth the approach. Quality routes need some traffic. Apr 29, 2010
RTM
RTM  
I GPS'd it (on foot) at 2.25 miles from the parking. My advice: after passing Hound Rocks and heading up the drainage, STAY IN THE WASH, as it bends sharply right then back left. Any attempts to beeline at the climbs will be met with stiff resistance! Parallel the hillside until you can see a clean shot to the crags high on the hillside. Apr 29, 2010
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
It's a total of about 3 miles from Trashcan parking. As the crow flies it's about 1 mile SW of White cliffs of Dover.
There are actually 2 trails leading west from Trashcan, both visible on the Google satellite view.
The left trail goes more directly to Hound Rocks.

Johnny Lang crags is visible from main paved park road near the Negropolis. Apr 26, 2010
Murf  
More information on getting there... When you "veer south" you actually continue for at least one mile to the rocks. Follow the wash for a ways, through at least one rock band. The only "cul-de-sac" we saw had a large dead tree in the center. From here you head up to sort of a headland. At this point, path of least resistance across and then up to the crag. Nov 7, 2006

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