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Johnny Lang Crags Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Johnny Lang Crags

L › R R › L A › Z

	Fissure King T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Hibiscus Shuffle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	My Love Affair with a Wheelbarrow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	White Trash S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a

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GPS:	34.03095, -116.20478 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Vernon Stiefel on Apr 12, 2003 · Updates
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Of the many crags in the area located high on the mountain west of the White Cliffs of Dover only four have documented routes. The crags face west or northwest and remain shady during the morning. Most of the routes (both trad and bolted) were established by Mike Lechlinski and Mari Gingery and are, therefore, relatively difficult. White Trash (5.11+) ascends a stellar face, Evil Tree (5.12b/c) goes up an overhanging face to large roof, and Fissure King (5.10a) climbs an initially thin and vertical crack that widens and goes over two small roofs. More routes are described in, "Rock Climbs of Lost Horse Valley" by Alan Bartlett and will be included in Randy's new guidebook.

Getting There

From Trash Can Rock take the trail that heads toward Baskerville Rock but veer right into a west - east wash a few hundred yards before Baskerville Rock. The wash narrows into a drainage and goes up a steep but short section over polished boulders. When the steep section ends the drainage veers left in a south - north direction. Follow the drainage toward the Johnny Lang Crags which are visible high on the mountain side slightly left of the wash. When the drainage ends in a small cul-de-sac climb the steep grade to the crags.