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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Gaines & Mark Hubbard, March 1996
Page Views: 1,871 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Start right of Popular Mechanics and climb past a bolt and a gear placement (2" piece) to access the first of five bolts which lead up the slabby arete and ends in the upper reaches of the Popular Mechanics dihedral (gear belay here). Use the fixed anchors of Popular Mechanics to rap back to the base.

The climbing is balancy, footwork intensive and a nice counterpoint to the nearby cracks. Another quality Gaines route and a nice addition to the area. Three stars out of five.


This is the face to arete just right of Popular Mechanics.


5 bolts (3/8"), pro to 3"


Vernon Stiefel
Vernon Stiefel  
I remember more than one technical crux on this fine route. Three out of five stars. Feb 11, 2004
Mark J Gain  
Felt like 5.10 to me. Good rock and cool arete. Apr 17, 2005
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
If this route felt like 5.10a to you or anyone were on the wrong route.... May 22, 2011
Jack Ziegler
Atascadero, CA
Jack Ziegler   Atascadero, CA
seems like this route would be waaaay easier for people over 6ft. I was baffled by the crux halfway up Feb 9, 2012
Lucas Dunn
San Marcos
Lucas Dunn   San Marcos
Really high quality route. the moves to make the 2nd bolt are really committing unless you protect the crack with a cam and a sling. Bad rope drag potential if you clip the wrong bolts, or don't extend the bolts properly before you start the upper ArĂȘte. Defiantly not 5.10, unless you want to down grade every 5.10 in the park. Oct 22, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
Freaking Amazing route!! Excellent Rock quality, different then a lot of stuff at J-Tree. Well protected (make sure to bring a medium size piece and sling it long between the first and second bolt)! Fun Techy moves on a beautiful arete and face. I am 6'1 and I found the route just perfect for my stature! Send On!!!! Dec 6, 2012

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