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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 571 total, 3/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Mar 6, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a reasonably fun route and totally worth doing, but the shortness and the big Nolina that you have to climb past (not painful or overly awkward) in the crack do detract from it. Were it not for that it would deserve a star or two. Around and left 75' from Jack of Hearts is this arching finger crack behind a flake. Where the flake ends a bolt protects a couple of steep friction moves (5.9). Downclimb left (mildly exposed 4th class) or scramble right (very exposed but easier 3rd class) to the rappel station atop Jack of Hearts / Ace of Spades.

Protection

Several pieces in the .75-1.25" range as well as a handful of larger and smaller pieces. One bolt at the top.

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Woody Stark  
 
Fine route, but the upper nolina is a vampire that slices for its dinner. May 18, 2005
The nolina bush just adds character to this route. Fun climbing, definitely worth a star at least. Mar 12, 2003
Josh Beck  
 
They're very similar in appearance to the Sotol's of Hueco Tanks or the various Yucca species of socal (among which the Joshua Trees, Yucca brevifolia, are included), and are all reasonably closely related being in the Agavaceae Family. Family Agavaceae is in turn in Order Liliopsida, the Lillies...

Sorry for being a geek, my mother is a botanist :) Mar 10, 2003
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
Okay, I was curious: A "Nolina" is a small genus of Agave relatives native mostly from southwestern USA and Mexico. They have rosettes with hundreds of leaves, either stemless or at the top of a woody trunk up to 15 feet tall (4.5 m). Nolinas are xerophytes, generally not considered succulents.

Nolinas are dioecious (there are male and female plants). They produce large quantities of tiny cream-colored flowers on a paniculate inflorescence. Flowers are followed by tiny 2 or 3-seeded fruit that open and drop their seeds when ripe. Nolina do not die after blooming like Agave would.

All Nolinas tolerate at least 20_F (-7_C) and often much colder temperatures.

Quoted from desert-tropicals.com Mar 10, 2003