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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Todd Swain, Dick Peterson 1989
Page Views: 677 total, 4/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on May 16, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Park in the lot at Trashcan rock. On the hill to the west, you'll see a series of cliffs. The approach will take about thirty minutes. "Solar Flare" plus a number of fine routes will be found on the left side of the formation. Be sure to take a guide for these routes; it gets a little complex up there.

Protection

Standard rack, one bolt

Photos

Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Be warned: as of 2-28-15, the bolt hanger is totally rusty, though the bolt itself looked ok. A green metolius cam or similar size cam can be placed in the crack ramp maybe 8' below. Mar 2, 2015
Dave Cox
  5.9+
Dave Cox  
  5.9+
I also felt this was a little stiff for the grade (as did the two that that followed) I remember that tree was trying to snair my gear at the start.....stupid nature. May 18, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9+
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9+
Now I remember! This is the other one we did. Woody took this one on. The first move has you wrestling a tree branch in order to gain the rock. The bottom section is awkward, but not hard....I thought maybe 5.6. The face moves are where the 5.9+ section grabs you. It's pretty tricky for the grade. It almost seems and looks as if a couple of holds have been lost over time. The rock shows two spots on route where it appears to have broken away. I am not certain of this as it was my first time out there..........whatever the case, worth doing. May 18, 2005