Mountain Project Logo

Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Ray Olson, 1985, TR. Paul Craven, Jim Dunn, 1985, Lead.
Page Views: 349 total, 9/month
Shared By: Sean on Oct 19, 2014
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Short thin crack to the left of Jack Of Hearts. It starts with slopey jugs, ascends past a slot and dents as it thins to fingers and then to a steep stretch of tips, and finishes via gratifying jugs onto the big ledge.

Descent

Walk off to climber's left via the gap furthest back, squeezing past a yucca, then down easy mulchy slope steps

Protection

Thin to 0.75", gear anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
nathanael
Riverside, CA
  5.11a
nathanael   Riverside, CA
  5.11a
Actually pretty good, though short. Fun layback moves with good feet. Naturally links into Sen Blen and makes it a normal length route, so do that for sure. Vogel gives it 10d R and Miramontes 11 a or b R. I could see 10d, but 11a feels fair to me.

Definitely NOT R or PG13 though, this route protects very well with small cams (Red/Yellow C3s or equivalent), you can really sew it up with no trouble. Apr 2, 2017