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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tad Welch, Todd Swain, George Hurley & John Thackray
Page Views: 535 total, 7/month
Shared By: Murf on Oct 17, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is nice addition if one has done Wilted Flower Children. A short quality finger crack leads to standing on the upper section of the ledge with the belay for Popular Mechanics. From here move right onto the face leads to a wild series of arete moves almost like an easier (and shorter) Good Housekeeping.

The line is somewhat disjointed but both sections are quite fun.

Location

Move the belay left about 20' from the top of Wilted Flower Children.

A 60m rope will get you to the ground.

Protection

Finger size, two bolts, two bolt anchor (chain and Metolious rap hanger).

Photos

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S. Saunders
  5.10+
S. Saunders  
  5.10+
I climbed this the same day as Murf. I wasn't sure what it was, but it proved to be a pretty nice little diversion while in the area.

At 5'6", I had to s-t-r-e-t-c-h quite a ways to clip the bolt off the ledge...but it's all good. Oct 22, 2011