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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Tad Welch, Todd Swain, George Hurley & John Thackray
Page Views: 566 total · 7/month
Shared By: Murf on Oct 17, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route is nice addition if one has done Wilted Flower Children. A short quality finger crack leads to standing on the upper section of the ledge with the belay for Popular Mechanics. From here move right onto the face leads to a wild series of arete moves almost like an easier (and shorter) Good Housekeeping.

The line is somewhat disjointed but both sections are quite fun.

Location [Suggest Change]

Move the belay left about 20' from the top of Wilted Flower Children.

A 60m rope will get you to the ground.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Finger size, two bolts, two bolt anchor (chain and Metolious rap hanger).

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S. Saunders
  5.10+
S. Saunders  
  5.10+
I climbed this the same day as Murf. I wasn't sure what it was, but it proved to be a pretty nice little diversion while in the area.

At 5'6", I had to s-t-r-e-t-c-h quite a ways to clip the bolt off the ledge...but it's all good. Oct 22, 2011

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