Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Lechlinski, John Long & Craig Fry, November 1977
Page Views: 6,362 total · 32/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Mar 6, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Start up Popular Mechanics, the very clean, right facing, off-vertical dihedral that is the centerpiece of the White Cliffs of Dover, and about 1/3 of the way up diverge left into the middle of the 3 parallel cracks that head up the left wall of the dihedral. Excellent steep hand jamming makes this a great route and worth doing even if you've done Popular Mechanics already.


Standard selection from thin to 3", bolted anchor/rap station (3/8")


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
This excellent route with clean rock, good position and memorable moves is a treat for those who like quality crack climbing, and is one of the recommended routes at the White Cliffs Of Dover area. Four stars out of five. Sep 3, 2004
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
The bolts at the anchor are 3/8" Sep 3, 2004
Richard Beller
Fort Collins, CO
Richard Beller   Fort Collins, CO
I remember this as one of the best 5.9 routes in the park, and just as good as Touch N Go or Pope's Crack. Do it! Dec 30, 2004
Woody Stark
Woody Stark  
A fine route, well protected, but no more than 5.8. May 20, 2005
Joe Dawson
  5.9 PG13
Joe Dawson  
  5.9 PG13
This climb is plently of fun, even if you already did Popular Mechanics. The climb is 5.9, the guy who said it is no more than 5.8 must have had a low gravity day.

The anchor is about 10 vertical feet above the Popular Mechanics anchor and it is a little to the left of the end of the crack. You cannot see it from the base of the climb, but it is there. Rap is about 90 feet. Jan 18, 2006
Ryan Kelly
Ryan Kelly   work.
I'm surprised at the low ratings, especially compared to Popular Mechanics. I think this is the better of the two, as you get to do the meat of P.M., and then veer off the dihedral into a splitter crack for some varied climbing on great rock. Fantastic route, I'm tempted to give it 4 stars, if it was a 5-star system I certainly would.

5.8? Meh, could be. Not the toughest .9 in the park, but it's fairly sustained and has a few moves. It's close enough, not worth worrying about. I have absolutely no idea how you would assign a PG-13 rating to this climb. Oct 6, 2008
Sherman oaks, ca
BrendanC   Sherman oaks, ca
Beautiful line! Three cracks go up the steep face starting at about the midpoint of popular mechanics. The center crack is the money. I made this harder than it had to be by using only the center crack (5.9+ IMO if you do this, which I highly recommend) since I showed up dead set on pure jam climbing. If you use the right crack as well, which gives you a positive rail whenever you need it, it's 5.9- at most with pro aplenty. In any case, the fact that you climb the best section of Popular Mechanics and then get 50 plus feet of this gorgeous line on the highest quality stone in the park makes this arguably the best 90 feet of 5.9 climbing in Josh. Add the several hundred vertical foot hike to the base and you feel like you're 400 feet off the deck while you're cruising the crux. SSSSWEET! May 14, 2011
Los Angeles, CA
5.9 PG13
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
5.9 PG13
This route never gets old. So classic. Climb the first part of Popular Mechanics and when the crux breaks, head left up the double crack system to a great anchor. Nov 5, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
One Beaut of a route!!! Crux down low, but protects well with small stuff. Climb the double cracks with some amazing quality rock! The anchors are up high and left, slightly strange, but they are there and that's all that matters at the Tree.

A Must do at the White Cliffs Of Dover!!! AMazing!! Dec 6, 2012
Kevin Dahlstrom
Boulder, CO
Kevin Dahlstrom   Boulder, CO
As fine a pitch as you'll find anywhere. Reminded me of Bishop's Terrace at Yosemite - similar style and difficulty. This route is only 5.9 because of the thin corner move on the lower section that is shared with Popular Mechanics. The upper crack felt like 5.8. Dec 8, 2012
Chad N
Central California
Chad N   Central California
Great climb. Loads of fun on good stone. Lol it does kinda climb like Bishops Terrace in a couple moves or so. good call Feb 5, 2013
Jeff Davis  
Very good climb. I like this one better than Popular Mechanics. Solid Jams and feet the whole way up utilizing 3 different cracks. In the shade all day making it a perfect climb for warmer days. Earns a 5.9 because of the shared beginning with Popular Mechanics IMO. Sep 21, 2014
Los Angeles, CA
kmyee   Los Angeles, CA
I think it's better than Popular Mechanics. You basically do the best part of Popular Mechanics (crux) and then swim up the double hand cracks to a bolted anchor. Feb 3, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
I agree with comment above. They both share the same crux down low, while Popular mechanics get drastically easier up high, you still pull some good moves on the twin cracks on Ace of Spades Nov 5, 2016
David S.
San Francisco, CA
David S.   San Francisco, CA
The double-triple crack system reminded me of the triple cracks pitch of the Direct North Buttress on Merriam Peak in the High Sierra. Good stuff! Dec 3, 2018
jt newgard
San Diego, CA
jt newgard   San Diego, CA
I've climbed a lot of moderates in the park and this is my favorite pitch of them all. Varied and long (for Josh standards) with so many ways to climb it.

The bolted anchor for this one requires you to step left after topping out the double-triple cracks. It's not visible until you step left. Sit on the nice perch and admire your handiwork! Dec 18, 2018