Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: John Long and Janet Wilts, May 1977
Page Views: 2,885 total · 11/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Mar 6, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

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Description Suggest change

This excellent crack climb starts about 75 feet down and left from Popular Mechanics in a corner. As you come up the approach trail, the route will be just to your left, before you go up the final section to reach the base of Ace of Spades and Popular Mechanics.

Start up a hand and fist crack to easier terrain, which leads to a short, but wide section that protects well (Variation 1). Work up using some face holds until the crack narrows, before topping out on a pinnacle. step across a void and into a thin crack and some flakes to the top of the pitch. 

Variation 1: After the bottom (crux) crack, it is possible to traverse right in a horizontal crack to the base of Popular Mechanics. Make sure to protect the second!

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, to include hand and fist sized pieces. This is a fairly long and varied pitch.