Jack of Hearts
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | John Long and Janet Wilts, May 1977 |
Page Views: | 2,656 total · 11/month |
Shared By: | Josh Beck on Mar 6, 2003 · Updates |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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Description
This excellent crack climb starts about 75 feet down and left from Popular Mechanics in a corner. As you come up the approach trail, the route will be just to your left, before you go up the final section to reach the base of Ace of Spades and Popular Mechanics.
Start up a hand and fist crack to easier terrain, which leads to a short, but wide section that protects well (Variation 1). Work up using some face holds until the crack narrows, before topping out on a pinnacle. step across a void and into a thin crack and some flakes to the top of the pitch.
Variation 1: After the bottom (crux) crack, it is possible to traverse right in a horizontal crack to the base of Popular Mechanics. Make sure to protect the second!
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