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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: John Long and Janet Wilts, May 1977
Page Views: 1,574 total · 8/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Mar 6, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

100' or so down and left from Popular Mechanics. Start up a hand and fist crack to easier terrain and then the top of a pinnacle, step right across a void and into a thin crack and some flakes to the top of the pitch. Definitely worth doing if in the area and on good rock but not as classic as Popular Mechanics or Ace of Spades.

Protection

Standard rack, a fairly long and varied pitch

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
I climbed this route about 10 years ago and it really kicked my butt. I remember thinking at the time that it was more 5.10 than 5.9. perhpa I was having a bad day. Comments are encouraged. Mar 14, 2003
Josh Beck
  5.9
Josh Beck  
  5.9
Immediately after this climb I did Nolina Crack (10a) and Ace of Spades (9), and both felt a touch harder, so it seems reasonable to me to call this 5.9... A little insecure up high after stepping across the void into the chunky corner but no big deal.

josh Mar 14, 2003
Murf  
Typical rack to #3 Camalot. If you continue high enough, there is a bolted rap anchor.

Start in the hand crack at the base of the lowest part of the main wall. Continue up the burly big hands crack, which eases towards the top. Continue through the offwidth above, and then step across a gap with less than perfect rock. The belay is on a ledge above. Rappel to the base of Popular Mechanics. Oct 17, 2003
namascar
  5.10a
namascar  
  5.10a
The intial crack is real good. A book example of vertical hands to fist cracks, on a corner. The rest of the climb is not so nice. I give it two stars just for the initial crack. It feels steep for a 5.9. Apr 4, 2005
Woody Stark
  5.10a
Woody Stark  
  5.10a
I followed and lay-backed the lower crack. I'd never do that on lead ,though. We (Locker) broke it into two pitches. I led the second, and the choice is between the jam on the left and the face on the right. I took the face(5.9), error, error--scary, dangerous runout. The lower crack we both thought was harder than nine. May 18, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9+
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9+
Now I have something to go on.....The hand crack at the start did indeed feel harder than 5.9. I give it the ambiguous 5.9+ because that rating means it can be pratcally anything out here at Jtree. Anything that is but 5.9 and down... The start ate me alive! But it was a challenge and really fun in an odd way............ May 18, 2005
Drederek
  5.9+
Drederek  
  5.9+
Eases quite a bit after the first 12 feet or it'd be 10a. 95' rap from the chains. Apr 7, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.9
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.9
Start is steep, but you don't get better jams than those! Definitely 5.9, no way 5.10 if you know how to do steep cracks (its all about how to use your feet). Upper wide takes small gear, so don't bring anything larger than a #3. Jan 27, 2013
Scott Scharfenberg
Santa Barbara, CA
Scott Scharfenberg   Santa Barbara, CA
Agree with Mark. Had an easier time with the burly-feeling start of this climb than the crux of Dummy's Delight, which is rated 5.9+. Though I felt this was one of the more committing climbs I've done so far.

Pretty sure I would've been quite scared on this route if I hadn't been in one of those perfectly-focused moments where you forget about sketchiness and just climb. That being said, in my opinion it's also one of the best routes I've ever climbed.

If you want to sew up the start you could bring three #3 C4's, otherwise two should suffice. Small gear up higher. Feb 12, 2014
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
1 star is very generous. Sep 29, 2014
Jonathan Cunha
Bolinas, CA
 
Jonathan Cunha   Bolinas, CA
 
Loved this route. Sweet wide hands that ease off to airy stem above the pillar to the top. Mar 30, 2015
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
Super locker if you have Camelot 3 fists. If you have small hands your most definitely stacking. Would love it if this climb was the same crack as the first 15 feet all the way to the chains. May 8, 2015
steverett
San Diego, CA
  5.9
steverett   San Diego, CA
  5.9
Had lots of rope drag after topping out on the tower and continuing up the corner to the Ace of Spades anchor. Good thing that section is 5.easy, but I needed two hands to pull up slack when my 2nd climbed.

Start is fun fist crack, rest is so-so and rope drag definitely diminished the fun. Mar 20, 2017

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