Type: TR, 80 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Kelly Vaught 1980, FFA: Unknown
Page Views: 997 total · 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This previously unreported route takes the laser-cut thin crack/seam left of Popular Mechanics (visible in the photo) and lies within the depths of the Card Chimney (5.5).

This route shares the first few moves of Popular Mechanics and then cuts left up the face via thin edges to gain the striking thin crack/seam which diagonals up the face. The crux comes midway and involves delicate footwork as you work to get established in the widening crack as it opens to accept fingers. Continue railing left on easier ground until you reach the back of the Card Chimney and then head up via fun crack climbing on great rock to reach another crux (5.10+) reaching for a distant edge. The route finishes up open face climbing directly to the anchors on Ace Of Spades.

Unique climbing and excellent quality rock are featured on this route that is unfortunately very contrived as you can stem back during the lower crux section and make this quite easy; the upper crux is mandatory however.

This route is briefly mentioned as an aid route in the Bartlett guide, but no other information has been documented to my knowledge. I'm sure the crack has been toproped and perhaps even lead, but probably by finishing up the top part of Card Chimney as the direct finish has no protection. Two stars out of five.

Protection

TR

Photos

outdooreric
Bishop, CA
outdooreric   Bishop, CA
I toproped this from the Ace of Spades anchor before I knew it was a established climb. I climbed Card Chimney to the end of the 7" slot, then turned around and climbed the "Conqueror Worm" crack once it widened to accept my fingers. The sharp crack angles left and leads back into the upper part of Card Chimney where you can easily avoid the 11b crux. Done this way, it was about 10a and could be led safely with a 7" piece for the start. Mar 11, 2006