Conqueror Worm
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
| Type: | TR, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02919, -116.199 |
| FA: | Todd Gordon & Kelly Vaught, 1980; FFA: Unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,110 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route shares the first few moves of Popular Mechanics and then cuts left up the face via thin edges to gain the striking thin crack/seam which diagonals up the face.
The crux comes midway and involves delicate footwork as you get established in the widening crack as it opens to accept fingers. Continue railing left on easier ground until you reach the back of the Card Chimney and then head up via fun crack climbing on great rock to another crux (5.10+) reaching for a distant edge. The route finishes up open face climbing directly to the anchors on Ace of Spades.
Unique climbing and excellent quality rock are featured on this route that is unfortunately very contrived as you can stem back during the lower crux section and make this quite easy; the upper crux is mandatory, however.
- This route is briefly mentioned as an aid route in the Bartlett guide, but no other information has been documented to my knowledge. I'm sure the crack has been toproped and perhaps even lead, but probably by finishing up the top part of Card Chimney as the direct finish has no protection.
Location
This route takes the laser-cut thin crack/seam left of Popular Mechanics and lies within the depths of the Card Chimney (5.5).



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