5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2.8 from 8 votes
|Type:||TR, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Todd Gordon & Kelly Vaught, 1980; FFA: Unknown|
|Page Views:||1,759 total · 8/month|
|Shared By:||C Miller on Dec 31, 2004|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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This route shares the first few moves of Popular Mechanics and then cuts left up the face via thin edges to gain the striking thin crack/seam which diagonals up the face.
The crux comes midway and involves delicate footwork as you get established in the widening crack as it opens to accept fingers. Continue railing left on easier ground until you reach the back of the Card Chimney and then head up via fun crack climbing on great rock to another crux (5.10+) reaching for a distant edge. The route finishes up open face climbing directly to the anchors on Ace of Spades.
Unique climbing and excellent quality rock are featured on this route that is unfortunately very contrived as you can stem back during the lower crux section and make this quite easy; the upper crux is mandatory however.
- This route is briefly mentioned as an aid route in the Bartlett guide, but no other information has been documented to my knowledge. I'm sure the crack has been toproped and perhaps even lead, but probably by finishing up the top part of Card Chimney as the direct finish has no protection.