Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dan Dingle, Chris Carpenter and Guy Wordsall, May 1977
Page Views: 1,887 total · 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A strenuous start (crux) in a right-facing flare (fingers/thin hands in the back) gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3" for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.

Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.

Location

This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs Of Dover proper, and climbs a flake to face just left of Quest for Fire.

Protection

pro to 4", bolt (3/8")

Photos

ChugachMan
  5.10b
ChugachMan  
  5.10b
For the anchor, I didn't find any need for larger gear. Two BD 0.5's and an Orange Metolius did the trick nicely. A really fun route. Nov 20, 2006
Sam Prentice  
 
Sexy, boulderly start with fun finger locks and jams, followed by short easy shuffling and awkward face moves to exit.

The descent sucks: ball bearing exposed traverse on left side, then circle around back and destroy soil and nolina down a short gully. Bolts would be safer and significantly less damaging to the area... hopefully an early ascent steward of this climb will add them some day. Oct 10, 2008
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
As per the route description - "descent is via the gully to the right".

Try the right side next time! Going right is casual and makes the need for rap bolts unnecessary. Oct 10, 2008
Pat C
Honolulu
Pat C   Honolulu
This climb is totally awesome. I felt like macho man randy savage after I got past the start! May 11, 2009
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
The wide crack takes a #5, not a #4 as is suggested. I walked my tipped out 4 all the way to the bolt. Luckily the climbing is easy there. Oct 31, 2016