Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 34.02919, -116.199
FA: Dan Dingle, Chris Carpenter and Guy Wordsall, May 1977
Page Views: 3,269 total · 12/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski

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Description Suggest change

A strenuous start (crux) in a right-facing flare with fingers/thin hands in the back gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3 inches for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.

Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. 

Location Suggest change

This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs of Dover proper and climbs a flake to face just left of Quest for Fire.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 4 inches, 1 bolt (3/8")

Photos

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