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> White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
Make or Break Flake
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 21
votes
Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
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Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Hinge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft |
| FA: | Dan Dingle, Chris Carpenter and Guy Wordsall, May 1977 |
| Page Views: | 1,852 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your Star Rating:
Description
A strenuous start (crux) in a right-facing flare (fingers/thin hands in the back) gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3" for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.
Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.
Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.
Location
This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs Of Dover proper, and climbs a flake to face just left of Quest for Fire.
The descent sucks: ball bearing exposed traverse on left side, then circle around back and destroy soil and nolina down a short gully. Bolts would be safer and significantly less damaging to the area... hopefully an early ascent steward of this climb will add them some day. Oct 10, 2008
CA
Try the right side next time! Going right is casual and makes the need for rap bolts unnecessary. Oct 10, 2008
Honolulu
Burlington, CT