Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Dan Dingle, Chris Carpenter and Guy Wordsall, May 1977
Page Views: 2,553 total · 13/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Description

A strenuous start (crux) in a right-facing flare (fingers/thin hands in the back) gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3" for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.

Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.

Location

This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs Of Dover proper, and climbs a flake to face just left of Quest for Fire.

Protection

pro to 4", bolt (3/8")

Photos