5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British R
Avg: 2 from 26 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Todd Swain and Peggy Buckey, 1986|
|Page Views:||1,250 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Adam Stackhouse on Oct 8, 2008|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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Climbs up the face of the pillar in front of Popular Mechanics. Head straight for a bolt low on the climb, then work up the arête over easy ground (runout) to a horizontal that takes good pro. Continue up passing one more bolt to the top of the pillar. From there you can join the last leg of Jack of Hearts do the step-across over to the main wall and up a chimney to the Ace of Spades bolts.
The 'R' rating is arguable, this climb really only has about two moves in the 5.8 range and there is a bolt at your waist for those moves.
From the start of Popular Mechanics, head straight up the pillar on the outside (left) side of the chasm towards a bolt.