Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Todd Swain and Peggy Buckey, 1986
Page Views: 1,250 total · 7/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Oct 8, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Climbs up the face of the pillar in front of Popular Mechanics. Head straight for a bolt low on the climb, then work up the arête over easy ground (runout) to a horizontal that takes good pro. Continue up passing one more bolt to the top of the pillar. From there you can join the last leg of Jack of Hearts – do the step-across over to the main wall and up a chimney to the Ace of Spades bolts.

The 'R' rating is arguable, this climb really only has about two moves in the 5.8 range and there is a bolt at your waist for those moves.


From the start of Popular Mechanics, head straight up the pillar on the outside (left) side of the chasm towards a bolt.


Two bolts, a medium-sized cam for the horizontal and a finger-sized cam for after the step-across. Bolted anchor.