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Areas in White Cliffs of Dover

White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 18 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
White Cliffs of Dover - Right Side 6 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Elevation: 4,258 ft
GPS: 34.029, -116.2 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 14,947 total, 83/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Mar 9, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The large, shaded (hint - good location for a warm day), cliff band on the hillside up and left from Baskerville Rock and Hound Rock. The rock is of generally excellent quality and features many classic moderates (Popular Mechanics, Ace of Spades, Jack of Hearts all 5.9) as well as some great harder routes including the classic Red Snapper, 5.11a. The other routes are generally all worth doing as well, several days can be spent on this excellent crag for sure!



Getting There

Hike from Trashcan Rock to Baskerville Rock on the existing trail (~10 minutes), and follow the trail left and up to the White Cliffs of Dover (another ~5-10 minutes). Popular Mechanics is towards the left, "bottom" end of the cliffband and is a very very clean off vertical right facing dihedral with a thin crack in it and 3 bigger parallel cracks in the left wall of the book (the right two of which are the route Ace of Spades), while Red Snapper is much higher on the right.

27 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at White Cliffs of Dover

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ace of Spades
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Popular Mechanics
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Make or Break Flake
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stone Hinge
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Field and Stream
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Housekeeping
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Quest for Fire
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Conqueror Worm
TR
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Soviet Union
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ace of Spades White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Popular Mechanics White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Make or Break Flake White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Stone Hinge White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Field and Stream White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Good Housekeeping White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Quest for Fire White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Conqueror Worm White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c TR
Soviet Union White Cliffs of Dover - Right Side 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
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