All Locations > California > Joshua Tree NP > Quail Springs Area

White Cliffs of Dover Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in White Cliffs of Dover

White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side 22 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24

White Cliffs of Dover - Right Side 7 / 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9

Elevation:	4,258 ft
GPS:	34.02934, -116.19954 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	56,146 total · 228/month
Shared By:	Josh Beck on Mar 9, 2003
Admins:	Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

Description

The large, shaded (hint - good location for a warm day), cliff band on the hillside up and left from Baskerville Rock and Hound Rock. The rock is of generally excellent quality and features many classic moderates (Popular Mechanics, Ace of Spades, Jack of Hearts all 5.9) as well as some great harder routes including the classic Red Snapper, 5.11a. The other routes are generally all worth doing as well, several days can be spent on this excellent crag for sure!

The White Cliffs of Dover from AFPA Rock, Joshua Tree NP

Getting There

Hike from Trashcan Rock to Baskerville Rock on the existing trail (~10 minutes), and follow the trail left and up to the White Cliffs of Dover (another ~5-10 minutes). Popular Mechanics is towards the left, "bottom" end of the cliffband and is a very very clean off vertical right facing dihedral with a thin crack in it and 3 bigger parallel cracks in the left wall of the book (the right two of which are the route Ace of Spades), while Red Snapper is much higher on the right.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at White Cliffs of Dover

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 61 ● Wilted Flower Children Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 26 ● Scientific Americans Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 280 ● Ace of Spades Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 365 ● Popular Mechanics Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 64 ● Jack of Hearts Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 26 ● Make or Break Flake Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 7 ● Red Tide Sport White Cliffs of Dover…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 7 ● Stone Hinge Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 69 ● Field and Stream Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 13 ● Digital Watch Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 12 ● Quest for Fire Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 42 ● Good Housekeeping Trad White Cliffs of Dover…
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 8 ● Conqueror Worm TR White Cliffs of Dover…
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● Soviet Union Trad White Cliffs of Dover…