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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mari Gingery, Mike Lechlinksi and John Long, December 1977
Page Views: 8,899 total · 44/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This route climbs a clean right-facing dihedral on the right side of the main formation. Start on the right face of a chimney and climb the thin crack up the corner. The crux comes early, with a long move off fingers, and continues directly up, on occasion using the cracks on the left wall. Bolted anchor/rap provides a quick return to your packs.

Protection [Suggest Change]

pro to 2 inches, bolted anchor/rap (100')
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Great route with rock that always reminds me of Tahquitz. Four stars out of five. Nov 11, 2003
Mike Hack  
 
I agree that this rock feels like Taquitz rock. Smooth and not as much friction as other Jtree rock. This route reminded me of "El Camino Real" at Taquitz, although much easier. Mar 21, 2005
namascar
  5.9
namascar  
  5.9
Great climb for hot days. It is away from the sun all day. Apr 4, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
I'm going with two stars on this one. It has some really good moves......... May 20, 2005
Woody Stark
  5.9
Woody Stark  
  5.9
Much fun with good, easy, pro placement. May 20, 2005
Joe Dawson
  5.9 PG13
Joe Dawson  
  5.9 PG13
This is one of the best routes I have done at JTree. My partner and I find the rock there to be like a cross between Yosemite and Tuulomne granite. 4 out of 5 stars. It is well worth the short hike, long for some of you, to this area to do a couple of climbs here.

Beta:
A #4 Camalot fits well in a spot at knee level once you are on top of the starting block. Red alien fits well at the very top of the second hand pod before the section of the climb where the crack peters out for a bit. You want to get a solid piece here as it is almost run out to the next piece. Jugs will save the day right when you start to feel the runout. Bring extra medium gear: green aliens thru red aliens or purple camalots. Bolts and rap rings at top. Jan 18, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
Takes great pro. Short section down low gets you thinking but easily passed. Fun, multi-star route and worth the trip when coupled with other classics in the area.

~Susan Nov 6, 2006
Simon H
Oakland, CA
 
Simon H   Oakland, CA
 
Superb fingercrack in a corner on some of the best rock in Joshua Tree with a short crux. Tons of fun, but get there first as the approach is longer and there aren't too many options once you're waiting behind a party.

Spoiler Gear Beta: The crux is nicely protected by a #1 camalot in the first hand pod, then preferably a green #0 C3 (green #6 BD Stopper is ok) in the highest reachable slot before doing the crux moves. Feb 14, 2011
BrendanC
Sherman oaks, ca
  5.9
BrendanC   Sherman oaks, ca
  5.9
Fantastic. Crux is in the first 25 feet, before you get to Ace of Spades. The new Miramontes guide has this as a 10a. Typo? Felt like solid 5.9 to me, no harder than Pope's or Touch and Go. The final 30 feet after the Ace of Spades intersection looks harder than it is. Just good white granite fun. Great pro. May 14, 2011
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Chris, Randy, Adam, Mike.....when did the bolted anchor appear? It wasn't put in on the 1st ascent. While it is extremely helpful, because the walk off is heinous, similar post FA anchors (ie. Gargoyle/Canaliso, Silent Scream, etc) have been removed. What's the justification? Aug 26, 2011
C Miller
CA
  5.9
C Miller   CA  
  5.9
Not sure when the original anchor went in but it was replaced around 1994 or so and at that time the rusty 1/4" bolts were definitely in need of repair, so perhaps sometime in the late 70's/early 80's . Aug 26, 2011
Canon
  5.9
Canon  
  5.9
Super dope. A breeze to protect. My first Josh 5.9 lead and I couldn't ask for anything better. Mar 27, 2012
Fluoride
Los Angeles, CA
5.9 PG13
Fluoride   Los Angeles, CA
5.9 PG13
This route never gets old. One of the best in the park. Combine it with doing Ace of Spades doing these two classics on Dover makes for an amazing half day.

Sartin/Gaines just put up a new FA called Field and Stream to the right of this. Look for the nut sticking out below a bolt that's hard up enough to make it a far harder start that the usual 10c.

The rest of the route is genius. Hard, but genius. Bolted with some gear. Well worth it. Nov 5, 2012
Mike Holley
Boone, NC
 
Mike Holley   Boone, NC
 
Another Fantastic Route at the White Cliffs! The Crux is down low for sure, shares the crux with Ace of Spades in my opinion! Super aesthetic route with some high quality lay backing! A must do in the area!! Fine Rock quality as well!!! Do IT!!! Dec 6, 2012
j moore
Santa Maria
  5.8+
j moore   Santa Maria
  5.8+
hollywood finger crack. this would be a yose 5.8 cant get anymore locker than this. not pg13 by any means there is a short 6 foot section with no pro but its easy. Mar 22, 2013
Jordan Collins
South Lake Tahoe
Jordan Collins   South Lake Tahoe
wish the bottom section lasted like 100 feet. that would be cool. Apr 4, 2015
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
 
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
 
Felt easier than Ace of Spades. They share both the same crux down low, but while PM gets easier up high, Ace of Spades still has a 5.8/5.9 move above (unless I climbed AOS completely wrong).

Gear BETA: nothing bigger than a 0.75 Camalot need. Need tiny gear to protect crux Nov 5, 2016

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