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> Joshua Tree NP
> Quail Springs Area
> White Cliffs of…
> White Cliffs of Dover…
Popular Mechanics
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.5 from 466
votes
Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
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Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Card Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Clucker, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Human Be-In T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quest for Fire T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Hinge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Westways TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02919, -116.199 |
| FA: | Mari Gingery, Mike Lechlinksi and John Long, December 1977 |
| Page Views: | 16,028 total · 53/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route climbs a clean right-facing dihedral on the right side of the main formation. Start on the right face of a chimney and climb the thin crack up the corner. The crux comes early, with a long move off fingers, and continues directly up, on occasion using the cracks on the left wall. Bolted anchor/rap provides a quick return to your packs.
Photos
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