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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Tom Gilje, Dan Osman & Mike Waugh
Page Views: 837 total, 4/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located on a small sub-face to the far left and up from the lowest point of the main wall. A right leaning thin crack leads to a thin flake above. Powerful moves up and through the beginning lead to a good rest. Thin pro (HB brass are comforting, but not required), thin fingers, and good feet lead up the flake to meet the bolt on Make or Break Flake (5.10b), finish as per that route.

Protection

Mostly smaller than 2", brass helpful, a few 3" for the belay.

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.11c
C Miller   CA  
  5.11c
Great moves on this route although the rock quality on the middle (flake) section leaves something to be desired. The start is reachy (I jumped for the pod) and leads to quality finger/hand jamming as you reach for the start of the flake system. While possible to cut left and finish up via the bolt of Make or Break Flake we cut back right in a right-slanting thin crack/seam for a harder, more sustained finish. Two stars out of five. Apr 8, 2005