Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Tom Michael, April 1989
Page Views: 136 total · 1/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Get to the base of this route either by climbing Digital Watch, or by crossing in via the base of Nolina Crack. Clip the fixed RURP (don't funk it too much, you don't want it to come out!), and move out onto the face. This is the face directly above DW and has instant exposure.Clip the bolt and make the crux moves, one more bolt and easier climbing above lead to the top of the detached pinnacle. A nut or two can be used for additional protection. The anchor will be comprised of numerous small nuts, don't stint on the nut rack.

Protection

A fixed rurp (yikes) protects fairly easy moves to a bolt. One more bolt leads to easier climbing, small nuts REQUIRED for the belay. Simul rap off. A 2" piece or two for the belayer may be comforting.

Photos

- No Photos -
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Good climbing on this and the simul-rap is a nice touch. Jan 10, 2004
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
This climb has been retrobolted. WOOT WOOT! Now 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 5 points to whoever chops it first.

If you do chop it, it might be nice to replace the original bolts because the first one is pulled half way out. I will say the rap anchor was pretty convenient to have around, since I wasn't in the mood to set up a simul rap.

Decent climb though. One thin move at the 2nd bolt (1st original I think) and then jugs to the top. Definitely link this with the bottom of Digital Watch. Apr 2, 2017