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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Todd Gordon & Tom Michael, April 1989
Page Views: 97 total, 0/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Get to the base of this route either by climbing Digital Watch, or by crossing in via the base of Nolina Crack. Clip the fixed RURP (don't funk it too much, you don't want it to come out!), and move out onto the face. This is the face directly above DW and has instant exposure.Clip the bolt and make the crux moves, one more bolt and easier climbing above lead to the top of the detached pinnacle. A nut or two can be used for additional protection. The anchor will be comprised of numerous small nuts, don't stint on the nut rack.

Protection

A fixed rurp (yikes) protects fairly easy moves to a bolt. One more bolt leads to easier climbing, small nuts REQUIRED for the belay. Simul rap off. A 2" piece or two for the belayer may be comforting.

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nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
nathanael   Riverside, CA
 
This climb has been retrobolted. WOOT WOOT! Now 5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. 5 points to whoever chops it first.

If you do chop it, it might be nice to replace the original bolts because the first one is pulled half way out. I will say the rap anchor was pretty convenient to have around, since I wasn't in the mood to set up a simul rap.

Decent climb though. One thin move at the 2nd bolt (1st original I think) and then jugs to the top. Definitely link this with the bottom of Digital Watch. Apr 2, 2017
C Miller
CA
  5.10c
C Miller   CA  
  5.10c
Good climbing on this and the simul-rap is a nice touch. Jan 10, 2004