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Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side

Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Quest for Fire T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stone Hinge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Todd Swain and Dick Peterson, November 1989
Page Views: 456 total · 5/month
Shared By: john durr on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A typical Swain route: thin, hard, loose, obscure, and exciting. All the necessary ingredients for an excellent Joshua Tree adventure climb.

Start up an easy crack in a corner to a large grassy ledge about 30 feet, a 5.8 move near the top is fun or hike up to here. Face climb past a very thin splitter crack, pass two well placed bolts, and then face climb past a very thin and hard to protect crack in a corner. At the top, flop onto a large ledge to the right and look for some bolt anchors on the far side.

Location

This route is located a couple hundred feet right (west) and up from Popular Mechanics on the left side of a large, light colored buttress. There is a bolted rappel anchor with modern gear above An Officer and a Poodle, rappel with a single 60 meter rope to the right, watch the end of the rope on this one.

Protection

Small brass nuts, set of stoppers, small TCU's, (small offset TCU's may work better in a couple places), light rack of cams to 1", two 3/8" bolts with Leeper hangers are in pretty good shape, bolted anchor/rappel. I didn't have any with me, but the smaller Lowe Ball's or BD C3's might have worked better than brass at the upper crux.

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