Description

Vagmarken Hill is the large rocky hillside on the east side of the road between The Negropolis and Quail Springs Picnic Area (Trashcan Rock). Routes are scattered all over the hillside, with most involving quick and easy approaches that get one up above the desert floor and provide a bird's eye view of the surrounding desert.

The left side of the hill hosts the Intimidator Rocks, where you'll find a couple of short bolted routes - Just Stop It (5.10b) and Bold Is A Four Letter Word (5.10a). Right of this is a large section of rock with Vagmarken Buttress (5.7), the original route on the hillside and an enjoyable route at the grade. Still further right is another large mass of rock with two distinct white dikes - James Brown's Celebrity Hot Tub Party (5.10b) worth doing if only for the name and the Right-Handed Dyke (5.10a). Finally on the extreme right margin of the hillside is The Place Where Sheep Sleep, which has several good sport routes including Were Sheep Here First (5.10d) and Where Sheep Sleep (5.12a).

The west-facing aspect of the hillside makes this a good place to find shade in the morning and some sun in the afternoon, although it is fully exposed to the occasional winds. Whether heading in or out of the Park, the short approach times make this an area to check out and enjoy.

Getting There

This is the large rocky hillside 4.9 miles from the Park entrance on the left (east) side of the road. Alternately, it lies 4.0 miles from Hidden Valley Campground if coming from that direction. Several pullouts exist along the road - find the one closest to the portion of the hillside you'll be visiting to cut down on the approach time.

Trails lead across the desert to the base of the hillside, but once on the hillside proper you'll be travelling over rough terrain with the possibility of some scrambling. Approach times vary from 5 to 15 minutes typically.

34 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Vagmarken Hill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
Wind Tower
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 13
The Ranch Hand
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 10
The Llama
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wind Tower Vagmarken Buttress Left
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Ranch Hand Ranch
 13
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
The Llama Ranch
 10
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Vagmarken Hill »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
FYI...Vagmarken means "Roadsigns" in Swedish. Amazing, eh? Feb 26, 2005
C Miller   CA  
Cool info, thanks for enlightening us! Feb 28, 2005