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Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face

B-1 T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Dave Stahl and Mona Stahl, October 1972
Page Views: 4,369 total · 23/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Nov 1, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Tiptoe up the crystals protruding from the thin dike in the middle of the face between B-1 and B-2. There are three bolts, and no real need for anything else.

Belay from a strong stance in a niche up and left from the top of the climb, then walk off to the north.

Protection

3 bolts, gear to 3" for the anchor

If you start at the base of B2 (slightly left) you can probably get a piece there before stepping onto the face.

Photos

Brian Reynolds
  5.7+
Brian Reynolds  
  5.7+
This is a pretty fun slab climb. It looks steep, but nice protrusions appear on the dikes (oops, I mean "women in comfortable shoes") everytime you need them. Nov 28, 2003
One of my favorite leads in the Monument. Nov 29, 2003
In my opinion it's an eight. Feb 9, 2004
A solid 5.7 in my opinion. Bitchin stairway type footholds with nice transfer moves to the next set of stairs with a commiting move to easier ground. Be mindful of your anchors at the top as the rock is quite chossy and untrustworthy. Long slings around the boulders at the top for the anchors are defintely reccomended. Oct 1, 2004
Bo Johnston
  5.7
Bo Johnston  
  5.7
Super route with little effort but getting down. Great practice route for Snake Dike in the Valley! LOL Mar 14, 2005
namascar
  5.7
namascar  
  5.7
Interesting formation Apr 4, 2005
Adam Stackhouse

  5.8-
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.8-
About halfway up, this follows an interesting quartz extrusion. Mar 13, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Cool dike! Sep 10, 2006
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Not a pure slab route like it appears to be from the ground. There are a couple friction moves, but it's mainly face climbing on square edges of the dikes. Fun route. Mar 1, 2007
72HW Holly
  5.7+
72HW Holly  
  5.7+
My friend David led this one and I was fine doing it as a TR.

Boy, you think jamming a piece under that flake before the first bolt will help your head, then you see that sucker bend! Mar 3, 2008
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.7
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.7
If Profundity is "R" then this climb is too. May 24, 2008
KraigP
 
KraigP  
 
fun unique climb. A lot of beginners at trashcan but still fun to visit Nov 18, 2008
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.8
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.8
An ok route. Very similar to many climbs at Mt Rushmore in the Black Hills, SD. Would go as 5.8 there. BTW... thats not quartz on the route, its feldspar (sorry, the geologist cant let that go unsaid!). Jan 11, 2009
If your are at trash can rock, you should climb this. its pretty fun ! Dec 27, 2009
attila
 
attila  
 
With the footwork this climb demands, this is a perfectly named route. All holds are super solid, except the flake below the first bolt. Feb 16, 2010
Rodger Raubach
  5.7+
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7+
A great warmup at JTree; one of my favorites, and do it every time I go to Trashcan Rock. If it were longer, it would be outstanding and worthy of 4 stars; I give it 3 stars as it is... Sep 9, 2010
Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA
Jeff Scofield   Yorba Linda, CA
Lead this today, I thought by adding a placement of a Metolius Master Cam before the 1st bolt under the flake made it allot easier to focus. Feb 20, 2012
Rodger Raubach
  5.7+
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7+
I have always used a wired stopper slotted behind the flake, and it's less likely to damage it should a fall occur. I'd say this is a PG13 move up to the first bolt; not really a death fall possible at the start, but a great leg or ankle breaker. Apr 19, 2013
Kent Sullivan
  5.7+
Kent Sullivan  
  5.7+
If you're not confident in your feet then smearing up to the first bolt is probably going to give you visions of cheese-grating your face, but its pretty mellow other than that. Interesting little step-ladder on the line of quartz (dikes?), really aptly named route. Mar 29, 2018

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