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Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face

B-1 T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,662 total, 16/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1. Karpkwitz ascends just to the left of B-3.

This is a fun little climb. It starts with some bouldery moves down low and climbs through some patina plates to a horizontal about 2/3 of the way up. From there, you have the option of toping out using a curving crack to the left or face climbing on the right -- either way is about the same difficulty. Anchor from the same spot as for B-3. Walk off to the north.

Protection

Small to medium pieces. You might be able to move over right into B-3 and place a larger piece. Also, it may be possible to sling a plate or two on the way up, but I can't really imagine wanting to ...
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
  5.6
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
  5.6
Easy 5.6 that protects extremely well. Nuts and a couple of 0.75, make it go without effort. I used the first horizontal for the anchor and it was bomber with a .75, 1 (x2) and a 2. Will come back and climb again. Dec 25, 2014
cyrus
Menifee, CA
  5.6
cyrus   Menifee, CA
  5.6
Fun route. The bottom half is just stuff to get you to the upper crack, which unfortunately is over after just a few moves. Jan 3, 2012
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6
Climbed this again just last week; after a 20+ year interval...it still feels like 5.6. Very enjoyable at the grade. Apr 12, 2011
Rodger Raubach  
  5.6
A very fun, but short climb on some desert varnish. I'll agree with the 5.6 rating. Led in 1985 using just a #7 stopper, and #1 Friend. Sep 9, 2010
Gary Schenk
  5.6
Gary Schenk  
  5.6
One of my first goals at Josh was to lead Karpkwitz. It took a couple of years before I found it on a day w/o a crowd. But it was fun and I really like this climb, short but sweet. Mar 12, 2008
72HW Holly
  5.6
72HW Holly  
  5.6
Yeah - the move past the lieback is exciting, and if not for that move the climb would've rated a single star. This is a really fun climb, one the aspiring leader might do well to experience on the sharp end. Mar 3, 2008
Mark L  
Haven't done this one in a while but I remember the lieback/side pull move about 15' up getting into the left crack being tricky for a 5.6. I didnt know how to get finger cams or locks back then so it might be easier. You can place a piece right there though and have a good stance before the move. This climb is pretty much about that 1 move and is a bit easier above and below it. Apr 30, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
A fun 5.6. Sep 10, 2006
mmurduff Mic
  5.6
mmurduff Mic  
  5.6
This climb was somewhat challenging to my partners. Although a 5.6, The right leaning crack past the horizontal area takes a bit of commitment even if it only takes a few pieces of gear. The crack protects very well with Medium Nuts. The anchor I placed took a #4 directly above the crack and small tricams in a horizontal. I give it one star because the crack can be done as a layback, which I thought was fun! Nov 29, 2005