PRINT: Rock Climb Tiptoe, Joshua Tree National Park

Tiptoe

5.7+, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.4 from 237 votes
FA: Dave Stahl and Mona Stahl, October 1972
California > Joshua Tree NP > Quail Springs Area > Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Tiptoe up the crystals protruding from the thin dike in the middle of the face between B-1 and B-2. There are three bolts, and no real need for anything else.

Belay from a strong stance in a niche up and left from the top of the climb, then walk off to the north.

Protection

3 bolts (1/2" SS), gear to 3" for the anchor

If you start at the base of B2 (slightly left) you can probably get a piece there before stepping onto the face.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

At the top of B2 and Tiptoe is the location of good anchor point- three good pieces of trad (red, yellow, and blue) will work

Amber following up on tip toes

Tiptoe (5.7+) runs up the face between the two cracks ©

Nathan with me on belay. The 1st of our ROWCC 10 Climbs in a Day with Agina.

Neale below Tiptoe

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Reynolds

5.7+

This is a pretty fun slab climb. It looks steep, but nice protrusions appear on the dikes everytime you need them. Nov 28, 2003

Infernal Doom Fanatic

5.7

A solid 5.7 in my opinion. Bitchin stairway type footholds with nice transfer moves to the next set of stairs with a commiting move to easier ground. Be mindful of your anchors at the top as the rock is quite chossy and untrustworthy. Long slings around the boulders at the top for the anchors are defintely reccomended. Oct 1, 2004

Bo Johnston

5.7

Super route with little effort but getting down. Great practice route for Snake Dike in the Valley! LOL Mar 14, 2005

Adam Stackhouse

5.8-

About halfway up, this follows an interesting quartz extrusion. Mar 13, 2006

Blitzo

Cool dike! Sep 10, 2006

Will S
Joshua Tree

Not a pure slab route like it appears to be from the ground. There are a couple friction moves, but it's mainly face climbing on square edges of the dikes. Fun route. Mar 1, 2007

72HW Holly
Minneapolis, MN

5.7+

My friend David led this one and I was fine doing it as a TR.

Boy, you think jamming a piece under that flake before the first bolt will help your head, then you see that sucker bend! Mar 3, 2008

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake

5.7

If Profundity is "R" then this climb is too. May 24, 2008

Joe M
Beckley, wv

5.8

An ok route. Very similar to many climbs at Mt Rushmore in the Black Hills, SD. Would go as 5.8 there. BTW... thats not quartz on the route, its feldspar (sorry, the geologist cant let that go unsaid!). Jan 11, 2009

attila

With the footwork this climb demands, this is a perfectly named route. All holds are super solid, except the flake below the first bolt. Feb 16, 2010

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT

5.7+

A great warmup at JTree; one of my favorites, and do it every time I go to Trashcan Rock. If it were longer, it would be outstanding and worthy of 4 stars; I give it 3 stars as it is... Sep 9, 2010

Jeff Scofield
Yorba Linda, CA

Lead this today, I thought by adding a placement of a Metolius Master Cam before the 1st bolt under the flake made it allot easier to focus. Feb 20, 2012

Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT

5.7+

I have always used a wired stopper slotted behind the flake, and it's less likely to damage it should a fall occur. I'd say this is a PG13 move up to the first bolt; not really a death fall possible at the start, but a great leg or ankle breaker. Apr 19, 2013

Max Melin
Los Angeles, CA

5.7+

One of those weird Joshua Tree climbs where I always forget how thought provoking it can be until I'm back on it. Always fun nonetheless. Apr 10, 2023