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Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face

B-1 T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Scott Little, November 1972
Page Views: 2,787 total, 15/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high. You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.

Cranny starts from the right end of the ledge, and follows the obvious double crack system. It requires an interesting combination of techniques, and protection is adequate but not copious.

Protection

Standard rack, including small cams (Aliens).
M Meyers
  5.8
M Meyers  
  5.8
All the gear on this is good, black and green master cams did the trick. Feb 15, 2017
dnaiscool  
 
Great climb, but I did note "Bad Fall Potential" in my anecdotal notes for the route. Apr 18, 2015
CrazyCranium
Eden Prairie, MN
CrazyCranium   Eden Prairie, MN
Just left of the double cracks on Cranny, there is a shallow left leaning crack that we were able to climb on the same toprope. Does anyone know the name and rating of this climb? I was unable to find it on MP or in any of the guidebooks we had. I would expect it to be in the low 5.10 range. Apr 10, 2014
Canon
 
Canon  
 
Good climb. Was scratching my head at the crux until I figured out to stem wide and lieback. Nov 8, 2011
Ken Noyce
Layton, UT
  5.8
Ken Noyce   Layton, UT
  5.8
This climb is tons of fun (if only it could have been 4 times as long). The moves are varied and cool and the protection was great. No need for aliens, I placed a .75, 1, and 2 C4 all of which were bomber. As for the rating, I didn't know what it was rated before jumping on it and when I got to the top I said it felt like 5.8, so I'd say the rating is right on. Dec 20, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
  5.8
Short, a better toprope than as a lead. All of an "8." Sep 9, 2010
attila  
Take just a light rack of cams and nuts. Lots of stemming. Last moves at the top are definitely stout. Feb 16, 2010
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.8
Way more fun than I expected for such a short route! First 5.8 lead. May 27, 2009
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.8
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.8
I thought this climb was a lot easier than it looked (althogh I only toproped it). The pro looked a little sketchy, would love to lead it otherwise. I stemmed most of the way up which probably made it feel easier. Jan 11, 2009
72HW Holly
  5.8
72HW Holly  
  5.8
Maybe this one has cleaned up over the years, I found the pro to be bomber and saw little of the above mentioned sand. Went on a nut down low and two BD #1's. Top out moves are powerful to say the least, and the high step layback is tons of fun. Overall, an exciting - if all too short - lead that I will do again! Mar 3, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.8
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.8
This climb is surprisingly fun! I found solid gear, and never felt that the protection was dubious (and I'm pretty picky about good gear!) Definitely steep for a 5.8! Apr 7, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Fun route. Sep 10, 2006
namascar
  5.8
namascar  
  5.8
Belaying from the first ledge above the ground makes this climb much safer. Otherwise, a leader fall higer up can end up on the leader hitting the second ledge, due to rope stretch. Apr 4, 2005
Better as a toprope.The crack gets sandy and the pro can be dubious and tricky. Quite steep for a 5.8 and the final moves are a mutha! Oct 1, 2004
Brian Reynolds  
  5.8
I didn't realize how steep this climb is until I was into the alcove and standing at the base. Fun, interesting climb. Nov 29, 2003