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Routes in Trashcan Rock - West Face

B-1 T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
B-2 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
B-3 T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Baby-Point-Five T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Bimbo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Black Eye T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Bloodymir T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cranny T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eschar T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyesore T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Eyestrain T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
History TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Karpkwitz T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Profundity T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Simpatico T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Tiptoe T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trough, The T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Tulip T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Walkway T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
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Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,428 total · 13/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Just right of center on the west face, there's a ledge about ten feet wide and five feet high. You can gain the ledge through unprotected but relatively easy climbing at either end.

Eschar starts from the left end of the ledge, and moves up and left. It feels a little stiff for 5.4, but protects well.


Standard rack.


as I recall, this crack is flaring at the bottom. it may not be the best crack to lead for the beginning climber. Apr 2, 2003
Well having recently led this route (4/19/03), I do have to agree that it was a bit stiff for a 5.4; however, I don't know where the idea that it protects well came from. I had a loaded rack and I couldn't get a piece that I could call bomber at/before the crux, that bothered me a bit. I don't know, maybe the fact that it was about 7:00 am and I hadn't had any coffee yet made me feel that way. All said and done, it's a fun route, though I wouldn't recommend it to someone that would be considering it for their first trad lead. May 2, 2003
Yucca Valley, CA
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
Sew low Oct 27, 2003
Fun beginner solo. Sep 8, 2006
I just lead this as my first gear lead and had no problem protecting it, except for the first little section after the shelf. At that point you can get a kind of crappy nut in some features to the left of the crack that gives some psychological protection, if nothing else. Nov 23, 2006
Mark L  
I think this is a tough climb to introduce people to climbing on - so its probably harder than a 5.4 but then most things on trashcan are harder than their rating.

Decent beginner lead although you cant necessarily sew it up, and there is a crux rattely right hand jam with poor feet about 2/3 up before getting onto easier face that can probably stress out a beginning leader. Apr 30, 2007
Gary Schenk  
Kind of awkward transitioning into the crack. One of the better 4s in the park. Mar 3, 2008
Joe M
Beckley, wv
Joe M   Beckley, wv
I found it difficult to get a good piece in until I got to the horizontal crack. Otherwise an ok clmb. Great fist jams up high! Jan 11, 2009
If you can manage the first moves to get onto the low shelf, you'll be fine. The route takes large cams fine (save some for the anchor!). Feb 17, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
Decent climb, and no problems protecting it. Standard rack of stoppers. Could be a bit stiff for a 4; maybe a 5. Sep 9, 2010
I agree.The jams and foot placements in that right hand crack up top seemed harder than 5.4 Nov 11, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
I wanted to do this route again last week, but it seems to be very popular and was occupied most of the weekend. It is a very pleasant , easy lead. Apr 12, 2011
Left leaning and rattly right hand jam at the crux. Used a #4 Friend around there. Otherwise mediocre climb. Nov 8, 2011
Patrick Sanan
Lugano, Switzerland
Patrick Sanan   Lugano, Switzerland
I had a lot of fun on this. I would say it is indeed in the 5.4 - 5.5 range but that rating assumes you can do fist jams - a great place to practice those! Protection wasn't completely trivial but I mostly found it when I needed it. Dec 9, 2011
least secure of the <5.7 cracks on this face due to flaring crack. the other cracks are more enjoyable (comfortable) solos IMO. Oct 10, 2015
Royce Robertson
Joshua Tree, California
Royce Robertson   Joshua Tree, California
Not a great first lead if my opinion is worth anything. Flaring crack feels really uncomfortable for hand jams (lacking technique I know - as most noobs are), and almost big enough for arms. Just not very secure feeling for beginner lead. Also, the opening move to get up to the ledge is unprotected and awkward. Apr 18, 2016
Anne Sandman
Anne Sandman  
Fake-led this one (on TR while placing gear & clipping another rope). The pro is there but not always straightforward for an inexperienced leader, especially through the crux. Nov 27, 2017

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