Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,584 total · 14/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Nov 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1.

B-3 is not as fun as B-1, but it's definitely a better climb than B-2. It might be worth climbing if you're new at the game and someone has set a TR for you, or if you've climbed Karpkwitz, since you can anchor the two from the same spot. Probably not worth seeking out for its own sake, though.


Medium to large pieces. Slings for anchor. Descend to the north.


Feels harder than 5.3. Sep 10, 2006
Mark L  
good first trad lead - again not so straight forward and easy as the 5.3 rating would have you believe. I had a buddy climbing 5.9 at the gym that couldnt get through the top part. Good pro options and some jamming practice opportunities. A little on the short side to be worth doing. Apr 30, 2007
All three of these easy hand cracks are good climbs. Fun to hit early in the morning and run up as a solo session. I definately suggest all three as beginning leads or solos for those looking for low risk climb to really learn on. Lots of places for solid pro. Good place to learn to set up a gear anchor as well Nov 18, 2008
Mike Dudley
Mike Dudley   Vegas
As a beginner trad leader this and the other B climbs were a lot of fun! Feels a little harder then a 5.3 but not too bad at all. Dec 29, 2008
Chris D
the couch
Chris D   the couch
Ha! Led this as one of my early leads, with a girl I'd taught to belay about 3 hours earlier. Figured I'd be fine in a free solo mindframe at 5.3, even though I'd never climbed the route before...

...welcome to Joshua Tree!

This climb is 5.3...if you climb weird, off-width sloping cracks that try to spit you out the whole way up.

Don't get me wrong; it's low-angle, and at it's hardest shouldn't feel worse than 5.5 or so, but it doesn't go at the level that most 5.3s go at. Jan 23, 2010
Gary Schenk
Gary Schenk  
A good 5.3 is one that makes you stop and think. This is a 5.3 climb...after you figure it out. Mar 17, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
I also rated this a 5.4 based on some comparisons on Trashcan Rock. At this level, does it really matter? Mar 11, 2011
Ben Crowell
Ben Crowell  
I thought the first 20 feet of climbing were more like 5.4, maybe partly because I'm short. However, the difficult moves are fairly easy to protect, so I would have no compunctions about recommending this as a first-time trad lead. It's relatively low angle, and you can reach up and place pro above the hard parts while standing comfortably on ledges. Good gear anchor possibilities at the top. The walk-off involves leaping across a crevasse deep enough that messing up would be ugly. May 25, 2014
San Diego, CA
steverett   San Diego, CA
Polished slick; better have good jam technique Apr 5, 2016