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5.3, Trad, 30 ft,  Avg: 1.5 from 146 votes
FA: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Quail Springs Area > Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - W Face


On the left side of the west face of Trashcan Rock (facing the large parking area), there are three wide, ugly-looking cracks. From left to right, they are B-3, B-2, and B-1.

B-3 is not as fun as B-1, but it's definitely a better climb than B-2. It might be worth climbing if you're new at the game and someone has set a TR for you, or if you've climbed Karpkwitz, since you can anchor the two from the same spot. Probably not worth seeking out for its own sake, though.


Medium to large pieces. Slings for anchor. Descend to the north.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lori leading on a cold J-tree day
[Hide Photo] Lori leading on a cold J-tree day
Climbing B-3 5.3 on top rope. Natural anchors are required for this route.
[Hide Photo] Climbing B-3 5.3 on top rope. Natural anchors are required for this route.
a first taste of j-tree rock. The dikes on Tip-Toe can be seen behind Liz on the slab
[Hide Photo] a first taste of j-tree rock. The dikes on Tip-Toe can be seen behind Liz on the slab

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Feels harder than 5.3. Sep 10, 2006
[Hide Comment] good first trad lead - again not so straight forward and easy as the 5.3 rating would have you believe. I had a buddy climbing 5.9 at the gym that couldnt get through the top part. Good pro options and some jamming practice opportunities. A little on the short side to be worth doing. Apr 30, 2007
[Hide Comment] All three of these easy hand cracks are good climbs. Fun to hit early in the morning and run up as a solo session. I definately suggest all three as beginning leads or solos for those looking for low risk climb to really learn on. Lots of places for solid pro. Good place to learn to set up a gear anchor as well Nov 18, 2008
Mike Dudley
[Hide Comment] As a beginner trad leader this and the other B climbs were a lot of fun! Feels a little harder then a 5.3 but not too bad at all. Dec 29, 2008
Chris D
the couch
[Hide Comment] Ha! Led this as one of my early leads, with a girl I'd taught to belay about 3 hours earlier. Figured I'd be fine in a free solo mindframe at 5.3, even though I'd never climbed the route before...

...welcome to Joshua Tree!

This climb is 5.3...if you climb weird, off-width sloping cracks that try to spit you out the whole way up.

Don't get me wrong; it's low-angle, and at it's hardest shouldn't feel worse than 5.5 or so, but it doesn't go at the level that most 5.3s go at. Jan 23, 2010
Gary Schenk
[Hide Comment] A good 5.3 is one that makes you stop and think. This is a 5.3 climb...after you figure it out. Mar 17, 2010
Rodger Raubach
Loveland, CO
[Hide Comment] I also rated this a 5.4 based on some comparisons on Trashcan Rock. At this level, does it really matter? Mar 11, 2011
Ben Crowell
[Hide Comment] I thought the first 20 feet of climbing were more like 5.4, maybe partly because I'm short. However, the difficult moves are fairly easy to protect, so I would have no compunctions about recommending this as a first-time trad lead. It's relatively low angle, and you can reach up and place pro above the hard parts while standing comfortably on ledges. Good gear anchor possibilities at the top. The walk-off involves leaping across a crevasse deep enough that messing up would be ugly. May 25, 2014
San Diego, CA
[Hide Comment] Polished slick; better have good jam technique Apr 5, 2016